Xochimilco | Mexico City

I loved this day. The southernmost borough of Mexico City - Xochimilco is home to the last remaining Aztec Canals and a brightly painted spectacle of Trajinera, the traditional flat bottom wooden boats. You can rent Trajinera by the hour to travel along the ancient waterways and....fiesta! The canals connect islands and what were once ancient settlements throughout the valley of Mexico, where people have lived and worked since pre-Hispanic times.

Xochimilco (pronounced: Sochimilco) is 22 miles and a 45 minute drive from the city center. An Uber will get you there with ease. Ubers in DF were inexpensive and we found the drivers to be reliable and professional.

There are local shops here worth exploring - some are kitschy, while others are true gems. We bought flowering headbands that everyone back in the city would later ask us about! I found a beautiful, vividly colored, hand woven poncho for $280 Pesos (that's $18 US dollars), while Christina and Teri scored embroidered dresses of the same caliber to wear on Day of The Dead. Bob purchased an awesome sombrero.

The really fun part comes when you board the boat! Sit back and enjoy as 10 men work to get your trajinera out from behind rows and rows of other flat bottomed boats which are enclosing you. It was quite an impressive feat! Once safely on the open canal buy your Micheladas, a bucket of beer, perhaps a snack of grilled corn or tacos on the canoes that pass by* and don't forget to request a song or two from the mariachi! Bask in the sun on the yellow and red bow. Buy a keepsake ring from a vendor who appears on board out of nowhere. Dock at a waterfront market when you need a bathroom break - be sure to have plenty of change on hand - 5 pesos is the going rate for a stall and a toilet paper square! Make conversation and wave to local families as they pass by; everyone is friendly, welcoming, and here for the party!

I felt the ancient Aztec Canals to be full of soul, mysterious energy, and time traveled history. Afterwards we explored the residential neighborhood town on foot - there was not much to discover besides small grocery stores and local businesses. If you want to grab a drink once the boating comes to an end, stick close by the Trajineras dock. Once you've had your fill of Xochimilcan fun, catch an easy Uber back North to the city.

The not so fun part, for us, came later that night and in the days to follow with varying degrees of illness. MONTEZUMA! This is no joke, you guys. Living like a true local (#comolocale was our trips motto) actually takes a harsh toll on your body. If I had to do it over, I would still go to Xochimilco *BUT I would eat brunch in the city beforehand and pass on the food that is being prepared on a little canoe surrounded by not so clean water. Here's the thing - the food was good, and it was such a smooth, hospitable operation that left us wanting for nothing; from the bright pink tablecloth to the pretty plates and silverware, to the warm tortillas and bowl of hot sauce. We have no proof that this is what we got sick from. Our decision to eat on the boat was based on a recommendation from friends who used to live in DF, so I don't think getting as sick as we did is the norm.

Mexico City | street food essentials

Mexico City. It's not what you think. 

DF as it is commonly known to everyone here, Distrito Federal, is a sprawling, high altitude (7300 feet) metropolis with a booming culinary scene and a flourishing cultural spirit. Where historical grandeur and pre-Hispanic fare meet hip neighborhoods with urban cantinas and chic mezcal bars; it's an intriguing, vibrant, one of a kind destination.

The nations capital is largely distanced from the drug war and dangers you might associate with any Mexican City that's not a trendy beach resort. If you didn't know any better, I wouldn't blame you. This off the beaten path trip, especially our Street Food Essentials Tour with Club Tengo Hambre had me feeling something like Anthony Bourdain, if not a true local. It was an inspired, food-filled adventure through El Centro (Centro Historico neighborhood) that took us from side street taquerias to the cramped stalls of renowned public markets, to quesadilla stands that have been in families for generations. We devoured dishes on this roving supper club tour that are quintessential to the region - ingredients and preparations you can not experience outside of DF. 

I had booked a private tour well in advance. The club reaches out with a comprehensive email once you paypal them ($125 each) letting you know the meeting spot, and warning you not to eat breakfast because this 6+ stop walking tour will begin at 11am and last for 3 1/2 hours. We became fast friends with our guide Mariana and could not have asked for a better time. The price is worth it and includes a bottle of mezcal as a parting gift.

We started at the cities original, best, hidden, tacos al pastor stand and helped ourselves to two bite size melt in your mouth tacos, washed down with a cold, milky-sweet horchata. These tacos are extraordinary, served with onion, guacamole and lime wedges. Then we ventured to Mercado San Juan - the gourmet and exotic food market "where the chefs shop", Mariana, a chef herself explained as she led us through a cricket, yes cricket, tasting. We washed down these salty, spicy, crispy, zesty and sometimes lime soaked Mexican delicacies with sips of smokey mezcal and squeezes of oranges dusted in worm salt. Back outside we briskly made our way to a sidewalk stall for hot, fresh off the griddle quesadillas. Shredded spicy chicken, earthy mushroom and cheese (a very special squeaky cheese you can only get at the local market) and even one loaded with leafy green vegetables. These were, hands down, the best quesadillas I'll ever have in my life. We sat among locals getting their lunch on, cramped in front of a beautiful subway tiled wall and a stairwell lined with bowls and plates. 

Yo Estoy Feliz! we all started exclaiming - I am Happy. 

The next stop was a heartwarming experience. On a sidewalk corner in front of a liquor store window, a deeply rooted, family owned business sets up shop. Two sweet and humble women pat and press blue corn dough, their hands caked in the pretty, chalky blue color. We pull up stools around their charcoal fired tortilla griddle and are treated to incredible tlacoyo - the blue corn tortilla is filled with chicharón (pork), requesón (fresh ricotta like cheese), beans and served with nopales (cactus), piquant salsa, cilantro, and more cheese on top.

We casually wander to the next market, described as where the everyday person shops and eats (the photos with the fruit and vegetable murals). Colorful Day of the Dead decorations line the bustling food stalls along with yellow Marigolds which are for sale everywhere you look. We make our way to a quiet corner in the back for agua frescas. My watermelon is candy sweet and filled with fresh, juicy pulp. Others opt for the tangy sweet tamarind and the less sweet and floral-y hibiscus. 

Still going strong with two more stops to go! Both happen to be taquerias that cook with these crazy big cauldrons, very common in Mexican street food preparation. At the second to last one, Taqueria Gonzalez, we stuff ourselves with campechano - a mélange of chopped meats with rice, potatoes, cheese and nopales aka the kitchen sink taco. I'm loving the sautéed potato element and never knew this was a traditional taco ingredient until now. The last stop is the famous Taqueria Los Cucuyos where I can hardly stomach another bite, but I do in the form of cachete (beef cheek), topping it with a sneaky spicy avocado and roasted green chili sauce and crisp radishes. Whole grilled spring onions are a common side offered and so I go back in for a few of those as well.

CTH's founder, Jason, meets us after his group tour wraps up and the six of us head to a local haunt for cervezas - through an unlabeled entrance way that sprawls back into a large, very worn in, old school cantina. We shared a lot of laughs and received a solid list of recommendations for where to eat and drink next. 

If you are traveling to Mexico City I'd highly recommend booking this tour on your first day in town. A fantastic introduction to the Central Historic District and an incredible overview of the famed street cuisine await you!