Dim Sum Brunch @ Moksa

A contemporary Izakaya brought to you by Chef Patricia Yeo, Moksa serves Japanese small plates for lunch, dinner, late night and weekend dim sum brunch, with a strong focus on the cocktail program run by bar manager Noon Inthasuan. Located in Central Square with a small unassuming exterior; a black awning shaded by leafy trees meets a shiny industrial doorway. The interior beholds a unique sprawling concrete floored space.

The bar and cocktail lounge (where we were seated) is illuminated by red and green LED lights while an eye catching white origami fixture parades overhead. Zebra-wood table tops adorned with Asian tea tins holding chopsticks add character. The dining room in stark contrast is darker and more intimate, almost cavernous with rich black ceilings and slanted walls to match the tables. 

Sunday afternoon marked my first visit to Moksa for their dim sum brunch as part of a Boston Brunchers outing with popular Seattle based blogger turned author Michael Natkin. At this event we received signed copies of his incredible vegetarian cookbook, Herbivoracious

(published by local agency Harvard Common Press) and had a chance to chat with Michael about everything from signing a book deal (out of the blue, the folks at HCP contacted him!), to his whirlwind US tour (he's been to San Fran, LA, Austin and after Boston was onto Providence + NYC), to family life (he has two young children who are also vegetarian and love to cook). As the conversation flowed among our intimate group so did the shareable pan-Asian plates, where everything from dumplings and noodles to pancakes and pho elicited praise. Dim Sum was not without boozy breakfast drinks made table-side and a number of Chef Yeo's daily dessert creations.  

It all started with a Sake Mary, a robust house made mixture perfectly spiced with peppercorns and laced with a generous amount of ginger and horseradish. Then a parade of dishes, notably inspired by Asian street foods begins. It is all about the textures in the Duck Confit Shao Bing ($7) where shredded and lightly crispy confit teamed with a soft griddle marked English muffin.
The Miso Eggplant Bao ($8) had a notch up on the Char Siew Bao ($8) - the clam shaped buns were irresistibly fluffy and slightly sweet, but the eggplant soft and steeped in miso flavor was unbelievably good. The Char Siew which is Cantonese style BBQ Pork marinated in a honey hoisin sauce was a little chewy and on the dry side.


The Tea Smoked Duck ($6) was elegantly prepared and sliced to a pristine thinness, the smokey flavors matched with a well dressed cucumber and carrot slaw. There was tender Vegetable Dumplings ($5), fantastic Edamame Potstickers ($8) and both the Five Spiced Chicken Spring Rolls ($6) and Vegetable Spring Roll ($6) with accompanying dipping sauces were comforting, crispy bites.

Perhaps the most intriguing item for their unusually chewy and overall astonishing texture were the Silver Pin Noodles ($14). Surprised to learn these are vegan, the bowl comes brimming with tofu, mushrooms and snap peas. We happily slurped a bowl of Vietnamese Beef & Rice Noodle Egg Pho ($14) though I wish it brought more heat. We dug into the Kim Chee and Shrimp Pancake ($8) which actually did thanks to the addition of sriracha sauce!

I'm noticing a trend where more and more chefs lately opt out of printing a dessert menu and leave this course to spontaneity. Chef Yeo's creativity excels in the sweet treats department, much to our surprise and delight. Homemade daily, the ice creams are a revelation, particularly the pistachio where the flavor of the nut is clean and authentic. The traditional green tea is lovely, too. A five spice ice cream sundae is the best of the bunch, I wanted that entire bowl to myself and I don't doubt everyone else felt the same.
I was content to share a just okay plate of strawberry rhubarb meets lemon jello cake (yes,  there is lemon jello infused into that cake) and an plate of hot churros.

I had a wonderful time getting to know Michael and I was thrilled to dive into his cookbook - where his personality, well written recipes, and vibrant photos fill the pages. As you well know, I am not a vegetarian but his recipes (I can't wait to share what I've made!!) still translate as flavorful, hearty and adventurous. Since I'm on a constant hunt to spice up my weeknight chicken or pork staples his book has me excited about forgoing the meat all together. Herbivoracious has truly inspired a change of pace in my kitchen. 

I find Moksa to be a welcome addition to Central Square's dining scene. Yeo's concept is well executed start to finish, it brings flavorful food and an overall fun experience! 

Moksa

450 Mass Ave

Cambridge, MA 02139