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Thursday, February 24, 2011

Tico | Back Bay

Tico is Back Bays newest venue serving Latin American inspired food from renowned Boston chef Michael Schlow. Already a fan of his French American cuisine at Radius the opening of Tico garnered much buzz and curiosity. Would it live up to the hype?! Justin, Megan, Michelle, Tania, Meghan and I decided to find out. I arrived first and grabbed a corner window seat in the dark tequila bar where a waiter approached me right away. Tico boasts a full wine and tequila list, the beer and cocktail menus are still non existent in printed form. However, a plethora of bottled and draft beer options are available. I began the evening with a draft Negra Modelo ($6), a robust Mexican lager that hit the spot. We settled into our spacious table for six in a window front alcove over looking St. James Street and decided on eight small plates and three taco dishes. The dishes were delivered promptly to start and well paced throughout, lending aesthetically pleasing presentations with food that was for the most part, well flavored and incredibly tasty. Once I finished my cerveza I ordered a Margarita ($10) deciding that I should honor National Margarita Day (how fitting!) while I had the chance. This one definitely honored the day, it was strong and brightly flavored. Tico also offers blood orange and pomegranate margaritas that were well received by my dining companions. 
Crispy Fried Manchego Cheese ($9) was a warm gooey-meets-crispy bite served with a spicy pomegranate honey sauce. A play on a classic mozzarella stick, this small plate was an instant winner.
Tico ups the ante with a Brussels Sprouts ($8) dish incorporating bacon, kumquats, mint and jalapenos. I adored this combination.
The first batch of tacos up were the Crunchy Fried Chicken ($10) with fennel slaw & spicy buttermilk dressing.These were an excellent choice, the chicken is indeed perfectly crunchy and the generous toppings add layers of flavor.
The Shrimp Toast ($8) with avocado, pickled jalapeños and lime were intriguing as described, the plate boasting attractive looking rectangles of crispy fried shrimp.
Greasy little morsels they were! As eye-catching as they sat, glistening with oil, the greasiness ended up overpowering the minimal dollop of avocado and pickled jalapeño. Perhaps adding more of the toppings would elevate the taste.The Crispy Sweetbreads ($8) tasted rather bland, although I have to admit this is my first time trying them. The masa harissa, endive, blood orange and hazelnuts somehow weren't enough to boost the sweatbreads to a memorable status in my eyes. All was forgiven when the Creamy Gigante Beans ($10) with chorizo and green onion graced the table.Also new to me, but far more exciting and flavorful than the Sweatbreads were these tender smooth disks, flatter and larger than your average white bean - it's a Gigante Bean!Up next were the Crispy Fish Tacos ($9) served with pickled onions & red jalapeno. They were good, but not great. Standard, but no wow factor. That spicy buttermilk dressing on the chicken taco is a tough act to follow. I loved the next dish of Octopus ($11) with yellow peppers, citrus, and Aleppo pepper. This dish had an energetic presentation with bright flavors to match. The Snap Peas ($8) with orange zest, Tabasco butter and “crunchies” brought a good amount of heat. The pea pods themselves were crisp and fresh. This is definitely a winning plate.Close up, oh snap!The Spicy Shrimp ($12) rounded out the taco plates in fine form topped with bacon and avocado. Keeping it simple, these tacos succeed. The final small plate was one amazing dish of "Creamed" Corn ($8) with bacon, chilis and thai basil.A lingering heat from the chilis marked this as the spiciest dish of the evening and left my palate extremely satisfied. Tico is also doing desserts. And doing them well. We went ahead and ordered the first three on the menu, beginning with a decadent and rich Super Delicious Chocolate Tart ($10) with tres leche ice cream. I can't argue with their description on that one! 

With a refreshing bite of citrus fruit custard, whipped cream and sweet sugary strawberries the Lemon Sabayon Tart ($10) was terrific. 

My favorite, though, was the Chocolate Gelato Peanut Butter Mousse-Over The Top-Caramelized Banana Split ($10) with Mexican chocolate sauce and crushed peanuts. Chocolate and Peanut butter always wins! The caramelized banana took it over the top for me.
Tico's breakout on the culinary scene brings enthusiasts something new. Its not a traditional tapas bar, its not your standard Mexican fare, its American food with Latin and Spanish influenced flavor profiles showcased in beautiful plates of food. Well done, Chef Schlow!

222 Berkeley Street
Boston, MA 02116

15 comments:

  1. Great review! I really look forward to a repeat visit to Tico!

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  2. So many good things to try! Those manchego bites and definitely the dessert.

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  3. Tuesday night was SO much fun. I'm looking forward to doing it again soon!

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  4. The sweetbreads look great. Too bad they didn't live up to their looks. Everything else sounds really good though!

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  5. Everything looks fantastic, I LOVE fish tacos!

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  6. Awesome review! Tuesday night was so much fun. Maybe we should turn this into a regular thing!

    Love this: "Greasy little morsels they were." :)

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  7. this looks like a place that I could chow down at...it also looks like a place that I could get drunk at because that Margarita looks delicious

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  8. Thanks for those interior shots - I was wondering what it looked like!

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  9. Sounds like such a fun night! The food sounsd really good and I LOVE small plates :) Must try it out soon!

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  10. Tico's looks amazing! I am a bit partial to the fried cheese of course...but I am loving your "oh snap" peas too. :)

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  11. How is it that every single culture manages to figure out some way to fry cheese?? Probably because it's so darn delicious! Sorry I missed you this week, will do better next time, I got here and I was like, I have to catch up, yikes! XX!

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  12. YUM! That fried cheese dish looks like a bite size piece of heaven.

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  13. Looks delicious!! I'm always impressed with your ability to take great pictures in low-light.

    Is this in the old cottonwood space?

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  14. Fried Manchego cheese. I need!!! I loved Mexican so I will definitely have to try it out : )

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