Hipodromo Condesa y Roma Norte

Now that we've made our way through some of my Mexico City favorites and come to a mutual understanding of how outstanding this city is, I would be remiss if I didn't dedicate a post to the gorgeous neighborhoods we "lived in" and loved. Our hotel was located in La Condesa and we spent an equal amount of time eating and drinking in Roma. 

La Condesa is actually made up of three colonias: Hipódromo Condesa is the funky art deco area, while Roma + Roma Norte are considered the Soho of Mexico City with lofty tree lined avenues and luxurious residences. These colonias lend pretty parks, bohemian cafes, cozy bistros, hip cocktail dens and fascinating architecture. Hipódromo or Roma Norte are posh home bases for exploring the continents largest city.

AR 218 | Hipódromo Condesa

I found our accommodations through my favorite boutique hotel booking site: Tablet. They have poetic write ups and dreamy photos for each hotel and AR 218's spoke to me. A stylish all-suite hotel offers a glimpse of what it might be like to live here, right in the middle of the action. Swanning through your apartment, sipping a café con leche, you live here now! Step outside into the cool and colorful streets of Condesa - where there’s more to see, hear, and taste than you can squeeze into a single visit."

That is exactly what we loved about this hotel, and how we treated our time here.

AR 218's modern suites are sleek and industrial-inspired with soothing pale concrete walls and hardwood floors. Our standard studio with a terrace was remarkably spacious including a fully equipped kitchenette, comfy Ralph Lauren bedding and a big marble shower. Additionally, I loved the floor to ceiling, wall to wall mirror in the kitchen and the circular mirrors that dotted the space over the headboard.

AR 218 

Alfoso Reyes 218

Cuauhtemoc, Hipódromo Condesa,

06100 Ciudad de Mexico, D.F., Mexico

~~~~~~

Felina Bar | Hipódromo Condesa

Felina's proximity to our hotel made it an easy choice for our first venture upon arrival to DF; although this is not a bar you are going to stumble upon just wandering the neighborhood. We had it on a recommendation list and felt like in-the-know travelers when we strolled by the corner space with no signage, peered in, turned around and entered what felt like someone's mid-century modern apartment. The space is dark and intimate with comfortable banquet seating backed by funky scalloped wallpaper. A tiny wet bar is situated the corner. They shake up cocktails specializing in mezcal and rum and offer a small but impressive menu of snacks and tostadas. The bruschetta we had were delicious! 

// T.W. Julep ($115) mezcal tantito, tequiliana weber, limon amarillo, rude macerada y agua de azucar // Manhattan ($115) whiskey jack daniel's, vermut rojo y bitters de naranja // Bruschetta de Tomate ($45) albahaca, aceite de oilva // Bruschetta de Kale ($45) pimiento confitado y bilbania.

Prices are in PESOS. Essentially those are $5 cocktails and $2 Tostadas. How do you not instantly fall in love with city where your first cocktail is $5!?

Felina 

Calle Ometusco 87 

Cuauhtemoc, Hipódromo 

06100 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

~~~~~

Fonda Fina | Roma Norte

We had an impressive dinner featuring regional Mexican cuisine at Fonda Fina. The staff was warm, welcoming and took great care of us. This place is consistently receiving rave reviews from the community and I would concur with them!

A favorite dish here was the peneques rellenos de requesón which are crispy fried tortillas stuffed with requesón cheese (similar to ricotta cheese) sitting in a warm bath of green pipián - a type of mole made with pumpkin seeds, garnished with Chiapas cheese, avocado cubes, pumpkin seeds, a drizzle of Mexican table cream and nasturtium leaves. 

Fonda Fina

Medellín 79

Cuauhtemoc, Roma Nte 

06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

~~~~~

La Capital | Hipódromo

Another delicious meal with polished service and superb cocktails was had at La Capital. Located a five minute walk from AR 218 it was an ideal spot to relax after a long Dia de los Muertos spent gallivanting the city. In that adorable clay cauldron I had a mezcal concoction with coconut, lime, lemon, and grapefruit and it was one of the best cocktails I drank on this trip! I also enjoyed a tangy ceviche, a comforting bowl of tortilla soup poured table-side, and a classic Conchinita Pibil (Pulled Pork) entrée. 

La Capital

Nuevo León 137

Cuauhtémoc, Hipódromo Condesa

06140 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

~~~~~~~

Alekzander | Roma Norte

On Sunday evening we tried to get into Limantour, a cocktail bar recommended time and again as being one of the best - a must visit in Rome Norte. To our disappointment the bar was three people deep and they had no available tables. We wandered a few doors down into a global inspired restaurant with an amazing ambiance and were so happy we did! Alekzander features a "cocina de mundo" (world cuisine) menu offering Italian bruschettas, Spanish tortillas, Argentinian empanadas, and terrific salads, so it was a like-able change of pace. The restaurant was softly lit and fairly busy, I borrowed the good looking interior photos from AFAR. I seem to have also neglected to take any food shots this time around! Regardless, this is another solid spot to check out in Roma Norte if you're feeling like it's okay venture away from Mexican food!

Alekzander
Av. Álvaro Obregón 130 
Cuauhtémoc, Roma Nte.
06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

~~~~~~~

Bósforo | Centro

photo above is the view from the tiny mezzanine space, borrowed from Eater.

I'm taking us out of Hipódromo and Roma into Centro for a shoutout to Bosforo. This is perhaps the hippest Mezcal Bar, tucked away on a dark side street. The bartender did not speak English but I somehow asked in Spanish for a mezcal tasting; she happily complied, and I ordered the one I liked best. I pretty much drank mezcal or a mezcal cocktail every where we went, but this intimate bar playing funky music was the best place to do it! You'll come for one drink and want to linger for five. Much like Mexico City itself - you'll come for four days and want to stay a lifetime!

Bósforo

Luis Moya 31

Cuauhtémoc, Centro

Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

Distrito Federal y Dia de Los Muertos

Dia de los Muertos - Day of the Dead - is a Mexican holiday celebrated on November 1st and 2nd that honors the dead with festivals, colorful altars, flowers, foods, drinks, and activities the deceased enjoyed in life. The symbolic Day of the Dead calacas and calaveras - skeletons and skulls appear throughout the celebrations, most notoriously as painted faces. As you can see, we fully embraced this holiday. In the cities grand and sprawling Chapultepec Park we found a lively stall of face painters. Simply walking around with these fun faces elicited waves and cheers from locals and inquiring questions from like minded travelers!

We purchased Pan de Muertos (Dead Bread) and the symbolic yellow marigolds. We visited the Panteón Francés de la Piedad ("French Cemetery of the Mercy") in Colonia Buenos Aires neighborhood and left these items on the graves as our celebratory offering. Pan de Muertos is delicious by the way - a yeasty sweet egg bread flavored with anise and dusted in sugar, it is only made in the weeks leading up to Day of the Dead.

I should also mention, Day of the Dead is not entirely how it's depicted in the opening scene of James Bond Spectre as one might assume. The movie actually inspired Mexico City to host a parade for the first time this year (which we did not attend since it took place on Saturday 11/29 before we arrived.) A typical celebration sees families, friends and young children dressed up and out and about, making for lively streets and neighborhoods. The altars we happened upon along Avenue Alvaro Obregon in Roma Norte and then of course the main scene of altars in Zocalo Square depict the very festive parts of the city.

As a lot of our time was Day of the Dead (and eating and drinking) focused, there were a number of museums and places we didn't explore (Frida Kahlo's House, Louis Barragan Houses) that I would have liked to. I also had to keep reminding myself that Mexico City is the LARGEST city in the Western Hemisphere and with that, there is no way to check everything off a city bucket list in one visit! 

It was wonderful and fulfilling and mesmerizing as we strolled around and spent time in the unique neighborhoods - from the historic El Centro to the hip La Condesa/ Hipodromo and posh Roma/Roma Norte, to gritty Buenos Aires and fancy Polanco. There's a number of gorgeous parks to visit as well - Chapultepec, Alameda Central and Parque Mexico. The must see landmarks in Centro Historico off Zocalo Square include the grand Catedral Metroplitana, the National Palace and Templo Mayor. Very close by are Palacio De Correos/Correo Mayor and Palacio de Bellas Artes, all examples of stunning architecture that you'll want to check out if you visit!

Next I'll tell you about all the incredible meals - where to have the best dinner in Polanco, the best brunch in Roma Norte, where to discover a hidden Mezcal Bar in El Centro, and a secret cocktail bar in Hipodromo. Stay Tuned!