Showing posts with label Veal Cheeks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Veal Cheeks. Show all posts

Monday, October 22, 2012

Fall Tasting Dinner | Bokx 109

I love participating in menu preview events and tastings; they allow a chef to really showcase their talent and versatility by giving you smaller bites of more dishes. The most recent I had the pleasure of attending was out in Newton Lower Falls at BOKX 109, a modern American steakhouse located inside Hotel Indigo.  

Guests were seated at the sleek taupe colored marble chefs counters with a smaller cooking and plating station set apart from the open kitchen. This unique set up lends itself well to demonstrations and interacting with the chef, giving you an intimate view of your courses as they come together.  

Executive Chef Stephen Coe was front and center all night, putting out first rate dishes at an impressive speed. Clearly a lot of thought and planning went into this meal.
Chef kicked things off with a smokeshowa giant wine glass was lifted to a swirl of smoke and once it cleared a delectable Pear and Mascarpone Sacchetti was revealed. Tucked neatly into adorable little satchels, sweet juicy pear and rich mascarpone are a heavenly duo in a lemony cream sauce.
Next, a local Grilled Oyster encrusted with panko breadcrumbs is topped with fennel pollen, tomato, panchetta and chive fondu. Fennel pollen gives this Rockefeller style oyster a unique appeal. 
In a duo of Octopus, carpaccio and grilled tentacles are served with arugula and pickled red onions finished with lemon juice, olive oil and chives. The supremely thin and delicate carpaccio was the favorite in this instance, while the tentacles were quite dry and didn't achieve the texture I'd expect. 
A classic Campbells style Tomato Soup is thick and velvety finished with parmesan foam and served alongside a deconstructed grilled cheese with slices of baby and yellow tomatoes, a fresh hunk plus a fried cube of burrata and tiny spheres of balsamic vinaigrette.

The Lobster Cavatelli was exquisitely plump and silky, that goes for both the nicely shucked crustaceans and the homemade pasta shells as they rested in a chive cream sauce with shitake mushrooms and edamame. A welcome finishing touch are thinly shaved slices of ricotta salada, a lovely variation of sheeps milk cheese that has been pressed, salted and dried.
With a similar taste and texture to chicken, the Deacon Rabbit is slightly more gamey and lends delicate, juicy bites contrasting with a crispy bacon wrapped exterior, served over tender stewed butter beans.

The Sous Vide Veal Cheeks with tarragon pappardelle and red parsnip puree are impeccably tender and richly flavored. Once again this dish showcases the chefs prowess in the pasta department, all of it is homemade and simply excellent.

A lovely little dessert plate offers bites (and sips, in one case) with a strawberry and white balsamic jelly, a petite tiramisu, a chocolate cyclone and a blueberry prosecco shooter.

A final gesture surprises us with a fun treat - Pop Rocks (!) over a limoncello souffle. Additionally, our courses were paired with interesting wines, most of the focus was on whites including a Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc, a Deep Sea Chardonnay and a King Estate Pinot Gris.  The red wine of the evening was a Houge Reserve Cabernet made exclusively for the restaurant.
BOKX 109 proves to be worth venturing out of the city for, especially as it is accessible by public transportation. It is the last stop (Riverside) on the Green Line D train. It contains all of the urban charm and sophistication you'd expect from a downtown hotspot with a chef who flies under the radar but could rival the best of them. 

*This dinner was complimentary, all opinions are my own*

Monday, July 30, 2012

Nix's Mate

Nix's Mate recently opened in the Financial District Hilton, replacing the forgettable Caliterra Bar and Grill. The former outdated space is rejuvenated by a 22 seat quartz bar, rustic walnut beams, pristine wood table tops and comfortable leather furniture. It is bright and sleek, with neutral earthy and gray tones, very of the moment. There's a minimalist touch with the décor points and a focused technique in the kitchen. Potted succulents, sepia toned photographs and stunning glass jar light fixtures accent gorgeous looking plates. Start with a Moscow Mule ($12) it's refreshing with a gingery kick served in a radiant copper mug; and then be sure to order the Fried Maine Lobster Caramel ($17). The sweet, fresh lobster meat - lightly crisped tail and claw play off the warm velvety caramel as it melts into creamy Vermont cheddar, highlighted with green onions and chilis. I'd love to know how the chef came up with this one, it's wildly creative.
I'm also particularly fond of the juicy, jam like blackberries in the Boston Bibb ($10) as they mingle with sturdy pecans, a creamy caramelized onion dressing and memorable cornbread croutons. Specials this evening also catch our eye, there's a large group of us and we're into trying a little of everything on the appetizers menu. Bacon Wrapped Scallop Skewers ($8) in maple butter come tightly wrapped and perfectly seared, dusted in fresh parsley. Fried Crab Cake Nuggets ($12) successfully accompany a summery salad of arugula, watermelon, roasted corn, thinly shaved beets, walnuts and a mustard aioli.  Both specials, I have a feeling, would do well on the regular menu. 
Spicy fried rock shrimp are a strange match for salami, pepperoni, mozzarella and tomato gravy in The Harbor Island Flatbread ($14). The cheese should have been more evenly dispersed and the crust slightly more firm and crispy. While the rock shrimp on their own were good, they weren't very spicy as described. The Braised Veal Cheek "Pot au feu" ($14) is a mini interpretation of the classic French beef stew. I've never actually had pot au feu, regardless, the cheek was tender with a rich flavor thanks to the bone marrow broth and baby roasted carrots and green beans brightened up the dish.
Next, Polpete Vongole ($11) pairs tiny meatballs tossed in a red clam sauce with the briny clams overflowing from a large shell. Much like lobster and caramel, blackberry jam and bibb lettuce, ingredients are coupled that shouldn't work, yet do. (I'm still not sold on fried shrimp and salami together on a pizza, though.)

Some members of my party who weren't particularly impressed with the appetizers would advocate desserts ($8 each) are what they're doing best. Cocktails aren't always on point and the wine list doesn't offer much variety, but the final course nails it each and every time. From the Strawberry Shortcake with a duo of buttermilk accompaniments - the biscuit and the panna cotta, to a decadent Chocolate Hazelnut Torte with olive oil, sea salt and Thacher farms cream, these creations are truly something special. The strawberry and vanilla Ice Cream Sandwiches with chocolate and caramel sauces cascading down homemade cookies are not to be missed, and if your sweet tooth is raging, the Banana's Foster Bread Pudding with toasted marshmallow over homemade brioche should do the trick. 

Service was reliable, if not quiet and reserved. I have a feeling eight girls at a giant round table whipping out large cameras was somewhat intimidating! If nothing else, Nix's Mate is light years beyond its predecessor, it strives to impress with food that is inventive and approachable, and mostly succeeds.

89 Broad Street
Boston, MA 02110