P o r t o | Portugal

Welcome to Porto! 

This graffiti was on the building next to our Airbnb. 

 Just here with my family to enjoy your riverfront city in northwest Portugal known for its Azulejo tiled churches, architecturally stunning bridges and port wine cellars. 

I pointed it out to Bob and we both started hysterically laughing. It's so good. What else can you do?!

Despite the graffiti, our young Airbnb host was very welcoming. On Passeio de São Lázaro a pristine 2 bedroom, 1.5 bath modern Penthouse apartment was spread over two floors. We were located directly across from Jardim Marques de Olivera and in the heart of many trendy cafes and restaurants. I feel like we were technically on the border of two neighborhoods - Baxia and Bonfim.  On the very outskirts of downtown (Baxia), above the Ribera, slightly away from the major sights, in the hipster hood that is mostly up and come (Bonfim). 

I had not researched about the individual neighborhoods in Porto. I booked our Airbnb based on the fact that I liked the apartment and its relative location. 

I recently read this article: 10 of the Coolest Neighborhoods to Stay in EUROPE. Bonfim, Porto is featured and I concur!! As well I can empathize why the locals in this once under the radar hood would graffiti with that distinctive message: "Fuck Your Tourism Fetish".

In Bonfim we were located among a plethora of local snack bars, restaurants and cafes. There was bustling Praca Dos Poiveros, plus the best + distinctly well know roasters: COMBI COFFEE. We merely had to step outside our door for a bite to eat or to fuel up in the morning. Oficina dos Rissois and Cervejaria Galeza were both on my radar and both closed on holiday!! On a whim it was Restaurante Poveiros for our very first meal. 

I ordered a Francesinha - the famous local sandwich. Wet-cured ham, linguicia (Portuguese sausage), and steak medium-rare are stashed between thick bread completely cloaked in melted cheese and a dense, coppery sauce. A Francesinha brings subtle flavors of tomato and beer highlighted with piri piri spices. 

Bob ordered the second most famous steak sandwich called a Prego made with thinly sliced beef in a garlic marinade, grilled and served on slightly crunchy bread.

After our first official meal in Porto, the kids were still asleep! We cruised around taking in churches and sites in Baxia and Monte dos Judos. 

There are a TON of cathedrals and churches you can visit in Porto. 

The Igreja de Santo Ildefonso is a stunning example of azulejo tiles. We popped inside Igreja e Torre dos Clergos but did not climb the bell tower which seems to be the main draw. The boys slowly woke up happy and well rested. We hung out in Praca do Infante D. Henrique.

Cam and I visited São Francisco Church known for its lavish baroque interior with ornate gilded carvings. He loved the gold ceilings. "MOMMY look, it's coated in gold!" Pictures are not allowed inside. It was worth a quick trip (€10) but Bob and Ryder decided to skip it. We stepped into Sao Bento Railway Station at night on our walk back from Gaia; the fascinating architecture, tile work, and ceiling detail is worth a look. 

We saw Se Do Porto Cathedral (below) and Carmo and Carmelita churches from the exterior on our TUK TUK Ride. 

The Tuk Tuk was another pick of Camden's. After São Francisco Church we meandered along the Ribera (riverfront) district and his excitement about them encouraged us all to hop on for a 1 hour ride. We careened through the city and even over the bridge to Gaia on a guided tour. At the end of our tour as it neared dusk our guide was kind enough to drop us back at our Airbnb. 

We had dinner in our neighborhood at Cantinho dos Braganca on Praca Dos Poiveros. The square is lively at night and so were the boys. We had a lot of good food - mostly tapas style - but I did not get any photos save for this tasty bowl of prawns.

 Afterwards we went shopping for provisions at the Mini Preco Express across the square. It is late but no one is tired! Jet Lag y'all!

The boys Tuk Tuk and Cable Car happily entertains their breakfast of choice: fluffy croissants. By the way, we are definitely eating a lot of Pastel de Nata but apparently inhaling them so fast they've escaped the camera!! You can see them in the pastry case below at Combi Coffee Roasters (R. do Morgado de Mateus nº29). With breakfast Acai Bowls and expertly roasted coffee, Combi ended our time in Porto on a high note. 

Additional Porto Posts:

Tips for Travel w Kids

Taylor Fladgate Cellars

Vila Nova de Gaia

World of Wine Pink Palace

We certainly didn't exhaust all the possibilities for things to see and do. (A Douro River Cruise, visiting Livaria Lello and Majestic Cafe, for more ideas!) 

The city has an emerging restaurant scene and Eater says it best: "finding a great meal couldn't be easier." 

Porto - a flourishing scene meets old world churches and azulejo tiles, plus one of the coolest neighborhoods in Europe.

Porto | Portugal + Travel w Kids

We traveled to Porto, Lisbon and Lagos, Portugal from September 8th - 18th. We also visited Nazaré and Coimbra on our journey. We have travelled with our kids before but to Europe with two felt like a family milestone! We flew into Porto via Madrid on Iberia as those flights were the most cost effective. Quick International layovers build character and stamina! Ryder is under two but he absolutely gets his own seat for a 7 hour flight. We rented a car and spent two nights in Porto before continuing south to the nations capitol followed by the Algarve Coast.

Portugal is without contest one of my favorite places on this earth now. And my kids, my favorite people to travel with. (Bob too of course!) Kids are still kids and toddlers are still toddlers no matter where you go. (Mine are 4.5 and 1.5). Keep your expectations even and they will probably surpass them. I was infinitely proud and we had so much fun. They will be the best version of themselves when you are the best version of yourself. So to that I say: take them everywhere. 

We travel with the boys car seats. Camden's toddler seat goes in a large travel bag that also has backpack straps and is checked luggage for free. Ryder's infant car seat comes with us on the stroller through security. His car seat is then gate checked along with our stroller which folds into a bag on wheels. (We always make sure to get two gate check tags: 1) stroller 2) infant car seat. We do not bring the extremely heavy car seat base. We strap the car seat in using the seatbelt method which is safe and secure. 

What initially feels daunting and logistically challenging about travelling with kids becomes habit and is easy. This method of travelling with our own car seats works best for us! 

In all 3 locations we stayed at an Airbnb. My top amenities for travelling at this stage in life are are: Crib. Elevator. Laundry.

I made sure to search for a crib in the amenities and communicated this to our hosts. All 3 had the pack in play set up and with fresh sheets upon our arrival! (It was not this simple when we traveled to Italy with baby Camden.) Either times have changed or the Portuguese are incredibly accommodating to babies. I think it is a little of both. 

An elevator is not a deal breaker. But it is good to know what to expect in your apartment building. Most Airbnb descriptions will list if they have one or not. In Porto we were in a penthouse up 5 flights. In Lisbon we were on the 3rd floor. Accommodations with elevators when you have luggage, little kids and a stroller - win. 

The final must have amenity in the second and third spots was a washer. This enabled us to pack light - one checked suitcase for the entire family. We had carry on bags with a change of clothes, kid stuff, and admittedly a larger back pack for Bob but ONE checked suitcase with the ability to do laundry worked out well. I had one packing cube for each kid in our checked luggage. I was proud of this!

Besides packing light in our one checked bag, I stuffed the boys carry-on full of goodies: a couple new things and favorite snacks. A fresh set of markers in a travel carrying case and mini coloring books were a big hit. Ryder loved this busy board and ink magic book. Ever since our last flight Camden insisted on travelling with his very own rolly suitcase. It made for an enthusiastic, happy, self reliant traveler and seeing him take on this responsibility by his own accord was cute to witness.  He unpacked and packed his belongings at each new destination with a sense of pride. This is what I love about travelling with your kids - you learn so much about them. You see them becoming cool little people and you see what matters to them. 

I did not pack toys because I knew we would buy them a few things. When a little tourist shop and a new toy equal a "relaxing" dinner for mom and dad, you get the new toy. (There's my secret BUY YOUR KIDS STUFF.) No but think about it - when you travel do you like to shop? Sometimes! My kids can have a new toy and off go their imaginations so I'm happy to oblige. Also a big hit - WikkiStix. I bought them for the flight but we never took them out until dinner one night in Lisbon. 

Final kids tip before we get into it: SNACKS. Snacks make kids happy and new snacks in new places are pretty exciting. If your kids are snacking at home, you can expect they will want to do the same on the go in a new city.

Now that you've landed - passports stamped - bags claimed - shuttled over and settled up with the rental car agency - have the car seats securely installed - navigated to your destination - found street parking - checked into your Airbnb: hopefully your kids are fighting off the jet lag with an afternoon stroller nap! Your first order of business in Porto (and this is an order) is a draft Super Bock and a Francesinha at a local Tasca. An espresso can bookend this in either order. 

Porto is i n c r e d i b l e - all the Port tastings and more surprises soon!!

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