P o r t o | Portugal

Welcome to Porto! 

This graffiti was on the building next to our Airbnb. 

 Just here with my family to enjoy your riverfront city in northwest Portugal known for its Azulejo tiled churches, architecturally stunning bridges and port wine cellars. 

I pointed it out to Bob and we both started hysterically laughing. It's so good. What else can you do?!

Despite the graffiti, our young Airbnb host was very welcoming. On Passeio de São Lázaro a pristine 2 bedroom, 1.5 bath modern Penthouse apartment was spread over two floors. We were located directly across from Jardim Marques de Olivera and in the heart of many trendy cafes and restaurants. I feel like we were technically on the border of two neighborhoods - Baxia and Bonfim.  On the very outskirts of downtown (Baxia), above the Ribera, slightly away from the major sights, in the hipster hood that is mostly up and come (Bonfim). 

I had not researched about the individual neighborhoods in Porto. I booked our Airbnb based on the fact that I liked the apartment and its relative location. 

I recently read this article: 10 of the Coolest Neighborhoods to Stay in EUROPE. Bonfim, Porto is featured and I concur!! As well I can empathize why the locals in this once under the radar hood would graffiti with that distinctive message: "Fuck Your Tourism Fetish".

In Bonfim we were located among a plethora of local snack bars, restaurants and cafes. There was bustling Praca Dos Poiveros, plus the best + distinctly well know roasters: COMBI COFFEE. We merely had to step outside our door for a bite to eat or to fuel up in the morning. Oficina dos Rissois and Cervejaria Galeza were both on my radar and both closed on holiday!! On a whim it was Restaurante Poveiros for our very first meal. 

I ordered a Francesinha - the famous local sandwich. Wet-cured ham, linguicia (Portuguese sausage), and steak medium-rare are stashed between thick bread completely cloaked in melted cheese and a dense, coppery sauce. A Francesinha brings subtle flavors of tomato and beer highlighted with piri piri spices. 

Bob ordered the second most famous steak sandwich called a Prego made with thinly sliced beef in a garlic marinade, grilled and served on slightly crunchy bread.

After our first official meal in Porto, the kids were still asleep! We cruised around taking in churches and sites in Baxia and Monte dos Judos. 

There are a TON of cathedrals and churches you can visit in Porto. 

The Igreja de Santo Ildefonso is a stunning example of azulejo tiles. We popped inside Igreja e Torre dos Clergos but did not climb the bell tower which seems to be the main draw. The boys slowly woke up happy and well rested. We hung out in Praca do Infante D. Henrique.

Cam and I visited São Francisco Church known for its lavish baroque interior with ornate gilded carvings. He loved the gold ceilings. "MOMMY look, it's coated in gold!" Pictures are not allowed inside. It was worth a quick trip (€10) but Bob and Ryder decided to skip it. We stepped into Sao Bento Railway Station at night on our walk back from Gaia; the fascinating architecture, tile work, and ceiling detail is worth a look. 

We saw Se Do Porto Cathedral (below) and Carmo and Carmelita churches from the exterior on our TUK TUK Ride. 

The Tuk Tuk was another pick of Camden's. After São Francisco Church we meandered along the Ribera (riverfront) district and his excitement about them encouraged us all to hop on for a 1 hour ride. We careened through the city and even over the bridge to Gaia on a guided tour. At the end of our tour as it neared dusk our guide was kind enough to drop us back at our Airbnb. 

We had dinner in our neighborhood at Cantinho dos Braganca on Praca Dos Poiveros. The square is lively at night and so were the boys. We had a lot of good food - mostly tapas style - but I did not get any photos save for this tasty bowl of prawns.

 Afterwards we went shopping for provisions at the Mini Preco Express across the square. It is late but no one is tired! Jet Lag y'all!

The boys Tuk Tuk and Cable Car happily entertains their breakfast of choice: fluffy croissants. By the way, we are definitely eating a lot of Pastel de Nata but apparently inhaling them so fast they've escaped the camera!! You can see them in the pastry case below at Combi Coffee Roasters (R. do Morgado de Mateus nº29). With breakfast Acai Bowls and expertly roasted coffee, Combi ended our time in Porto on a high note. 

Additional Porto Posts:

Tips for Travel w Kids

Taylor Fladgate Cellars

Vila Nova de Gaia

World of Wine Pink Palace

We certainly didn't exhaust all the possibilities for things to see and do. (A Douro River Cruise, visiting Livaria Lello and Majestic Cafe, for more ideas!) 

The city has an emerging restaurant scene and Eater says it best: "finding a great meal couldn't be easier." 

Porto - a flourishing scene meets old world churches and azulejo tiles, plus one of the coolest neighborhoods in Europe.

Vila Nova de Gaia

Going to Gaia! 

Gaia is the village across the Douro River from Porto. You head here for Port Wine Cellar Tours and to see the beautiful sunset over Porto's Ribera District. Camden expressed with a lot of enthusiasm the things he wanted to do once we arrived - and one of those things was taking the train! Always one to love checking out a cities public transportation system, we navigated Metro do Porto from our closest train station at Campo 24 Agosto, changed lines at Trindade and over the Dom Luis 1 Bridge we sped to our final stop General Torres. 

Crossing this iconic bridge either by train or on foot (preferably one of each!) is a great thing to do in Porto. The upper level is for the metro and the lower level is for cars and pedestrians. Getting off at General Torres and walking towards Taylor's afforded us a peaceful walk with gorgeous views across the Douro looking back at Porto.

After Taylor Fladgate and Pink Palace we made a spontaneous stop into Fonseca. (It was right there!) What can I say we were on a roll. Fonseca has a port and chocolate pairing so indeed more fun for the kids was had. (We drank the port, the boys got some chocolate.) 

We headed downhill from the terracotta-topped port wine warehouses to Cais de Gaia. This did involve folding up the stroller and carrying it down some staircases.

Cais means pier so now we are on the Gaia waterfront; a district teeming with excitement. There's live music, marching bands, cute shops and lots of restaurants. The boys got some ice cream and a toy each (a Porto cable car and a TukTuk)! We got draft Super Bocks and listened to a band before settling in for a traditional Portuguese dinner at Beira Rio. I had a glass of white wine from Douro (the pours are bigger here, right?) and Bacalhau. More specifically Bolinhos de bacalhau which are salt cod croquettes made with a mixture of potatoes, bacalhau (codfish), eggs, parsley and onion. Ryder loved these too and here began one of his favorite words to say on the trip. B A C A L H A U. Super cute. Both boys ate lots of french fries. That's a great thing about Portugal: restaurants always have simple, medium cut, golden yellow French fries on the menu. Camden probably survived on them. 

The sun is setting and Camden has fallen fast asleep in the stroller. Ryder took a long nap earlier so he's awake for shopping at The Fantastic World of the Portuguese Sardine and some truly wonderful cocktails at House of Sandeman on The Terrace Bar. Mine had Basil, Bob's had a a toasted marshmallow! We crossed the Eiffel Tower inspired (it was designed by a disciple of Gustaf Eiffel) Dom Luis 1 Bridge on foot and our epic day in Gaia has come full circle back to Porto!

It's Monaco (€9) Porto Sandeman Beat White infusionado com Marshmallow, Sumo de Limão, Cranberry Juice, Brown Sugar Syrup, Egg White and Caramelized Marshmallow

Le Centaure (€12) Sandeman Beat White, Gin Grennall’s, Sumo de Limão, Xarope de Açúcar, Macerated Basil and Ginger and Basil Leaf

Vinhos do Porta Fonseca

Rua do Chopelo, 84

4400-187 Vila Nova de Gaia

Beira Rio

Av. de Diogo Leite, 64

4400-111 Vila Nova de Gaia

The Sandeman Terrace

Largo Miguel Bombarda, 67

4404-507 Vila Nova de Gaia