One Fire Beach | Praiano

Allow me to introduce the other side of Praiano which is actually called The Praiano Side. The Vettica Side is where we stayed. It would be a shame to visit Praiano and not explore both sides. 

From the western facing part of town you can view Positano in the distance and walk down many steps to the popular orange chair + orange umbrella lined One Fire Beach! 

To get from one side of Praiano to the other there is a bus that drives the main loop making frequent stops. You could definitely walk although it is far! Our bus stop was conveniently located at the bottom of Flavia Goa. (Flavia Goa is the pedestrian only street where our Airbnb was located.)

Make sure to have coins for the bus - and a baby counts as a full person even if they are attached! The drivers are helpful to point out your stop if you let them know where you're headed. 

The stop for the steps down to One Fire are at San Gennaro Church. 

And from there enjoy a scenic walk twisting and turning with signs and local artwork to guide you. 

Camden loved the squid sculpture!

We arrived around 1 pm to a concrete beach club ever so stylishly nestled into the cliff side. The friendly staff gave us our pick of lounge chairs. While Camden was the only baby here we didn't feel out of place with him, we felt welcomed. As the afternoon lingered One Fire became more and more crowded and it turns into quite the scene - queue the infamous watermelon cutting dance party! Also, a weekday in September tends to be the start of the slow season, in the high season you'd need a lounge chair reservation. 

We had the best day here. We made friends with a couple from Denver, Colorado on their honeymoon and I'm pretty sure Camden convinced them to go ahead for that honeymoon baby. 

We headed out around 6 pm leaving behind a pretty tipsy crowd which I have a feeling was only getting started. We were off to enjoy the sunset at Bar Del Sol located at the top of the steps across from the church. 

It was apparently a day for Aperol Spritz selfies. Meanwhile, Camden makes friends nearly everywhere he goes. Here he is hanging out with Roberto who has lived in Praiano all his life. 

After sunset we had a nice dinner at Cafe Novanta Quatro. Our meals were off the charts good. That perfect plate of rigatoni, tomato sauce and meatballs was accompanied by crusty bread and red wine. Quite literally there is nothing more satisfying!

The following evening was our 5th and final night in Praiano. Multiple people we met while here raved on and on about Criscitos. This pizza restaurant is just over the hill from Vettica into Praiano so we walked up and over and grabbed a table outside just in time for another sunset.

Criscitos is know for their fried pizza and it sure is something. I recommend getting a fried pizza and a regular pizza, I was astounded at how good both were. The menu selection is large and varied so we spent a great deal of time making a decision. It felt right to go for a simple one and an all out one. We also had a ridiculously good octopus carpaccio and a rare treat in Italy, craft beers!

This is very much a time where my photos are not living up to how good the food is here. If that just looks like a bunch of meat piled onto a pizza I'm sorry but it was one of the best pizzas I have ever had!! Salumi featuring mortadella are topped with pesto, pine nuts, fresh parsley, and tiny balsamic pearls that explode in your mouth.

Meanwhile, Camden was sleeping on my lap, the little angel! He is such a trooper at all these dinners out, it's honestly so much fun to bring him everywhere. We are lucky he's such an awesome and healthy baby. 

My parting words on Praiano: Make sure you visit both sides, don't hesitate to take your baby to One Fire Beach, Criscitos is a must visit for their fried Pizza!

Our day trip to Positano is up next.

the rundown | New York City

On our weekend in NYC we did more than brunch and wander the funky streets in the LES. I pretty much loved everything about everywhere we went and wanted to share those spots with you guys. So without further ado....

I was excited when we showed up on Friday evening at The Mulberry Project (149 Mulberry / btwn Grand + Hester St) a subterranean speakeasy accessible via a red door beneath a Little Italy souvenir shop. It was just cold enough that the patio wasn't a comfortable option, but I loved the hidden outdoor terrace vibes. Back inside, in the dark, clubby space the bartenders sling terrific bespoke cocktails and we noshed on really good tapas! Try the Buttermilk Fried Chicken Sliders ($14) with harissa spiced apple and celery root slaw and the Artichokes + Avocado Toast  ($12) dusted with lemon zest, chives and pecorino.
Our next stop was The Aprés Ski Chalet @ Cafe Select (212 Lafayette St). Cafe Select itself is a charming Swiss fondue restaurant with tiny white lights blanketing the ceiling and retro fixtures like a big Rolex clock. We meandered out a door in the back, through the kitchen and into a hidden room crammed with straight skis and vintage winter paraphernalia. A little slice of aprés ski heaven in May in the big city. LOVE. 

On our walk home we passed right by Schiller's Liquor Bar (131 Rivington St @ Norfolk). I recognized it from A Cup Of Joe's NYC Guide so I made us turn around for a nightcap. It's a chic french-american bistro with a bustling party vibe. I drank a terrific cocktail called Le Simone ($13) with Absolut Vodka, fresh grapefruit juice, house made ginger syrup and sparkling rosé. 

The next day was complete bliss. After one of the best brunches at Russ & Daughters (127 Orchard Street / nr Delancey) and a visit to our friends-who-knew-all-the-speakeasys swanky new 19th floor pad + roofdeck on the Upper West Side, a stroll over to Central Park and napping on Great Lawn were in order. That sun felt amazing. 

Dinner on Saturday was with one of Bob's college buddies and his wife at their go-to Forlini's (93 Baxter St - Chinatown). It's a classic red-sauce Italian joint circa 1943 where dishes are inexpensive and made for sharing family style. We had a Chef's Salad ($10) and Clams Casino ($12.50) before I dove into a huge platter of Rigatoni Vodka Sauce ($15.50). So classic. It hit the spot. 

Sunday morning we awoke to dreariness and rain. Bob, Leah and Alex set out for their 40 mile Five Boro Bike Ride only to return home after 8 miles because it was a slow moving, crowded course and very cold. In the meantime had I cleaned the apartment, read some of this book, and enjoyed an outstanding apricot pastry ($4) and latte ($3.50) from Tiny's Giant (129 Rivington St).

Full on brunching over at The Wayland (700 E 9th Street) took place and then it was back to Boston. I must say, I felt so rejuvenated and excited after this time spent. When I travel here I am reminded how much I love this city, vying to return sooner, especially given how close it is to Boston (why do I always think it is worlds away?!) I was even reminded that New York City doesn't have to be overwhelming and utterly exhausting, it's all in how you do it. So thanks NYC for such a fun, refreshing, really great weekend!! 

Marco | North End

I lived in the North End for four years and I have been recommending restaurants to friends and strangers ever since. In fact, it was one of the main reasons I started this blog, teemed with the fact that I enjoyed photographing good looking plates of food, just because. (Before it became so trendy that it wasn't - or more likely is I jumped on a bandwagon unknown to me at the time.) I digress. Even though I moved over the bridge to Charlestown, those tourist laden streets of Little Italy still beckon. I miss them. And I'm strangely, fiercely loyal to this neighborhood in all its classic Italian glory. It is a shame that I couldn't recommend Marco, Chef Marc Orfaly's intimate roman trattoria, sooner.

I have known about Marco all the while, it sits quietly unassuming on the busiest section of Hanover Street, perched on the second floor above Caffe Paradiso. As we made our way up the discreet staircase for the first time, entering the cozy nook of a dining room anchored by a working fireplace with elegant hardwood floors, exposed brick walls, antique rustic beams and only a handful of tables, I couldn't believe what I had been missing out on. Our window side table was romantic in its simplicity, set with white lilies in a Sanbitter bottle vase, a flickering tea light, and lending an ideal people watching view.
At a glance their cocktail menu wasn't particularly intriguing. I noted standards (cosmo, bellini, mojito) and decided to stick with a glass of Prosecco ($9). They don't have a full alcohol license but make do with flavored spirits and liquor. Adam ordered their version of an Old Fashioned ($11) (think meets Negroni, with a Cherry flavored Whiskey) which made me think twice about passing one up, it was excellent! The small Italian wine list focuses on family run and boutique wineries. To pair with our entrees I chose the house Nero d'Avola ($26) a great value (about four glasses worth) offered by the carafe. 

After the atmosphere and the first round of drinks impressed, in swoops the bread course, a delightful gesture of bite size rosemary and garlic dusted focaccia squares served with house caponata containing olives, eggplant, onions, peppers and the obligatory side of olive oil for dipping. 

The Antipasto di Marco ($18) is a revelation of handsomely presented, simple delicacies on a heavy wood board. On top of a trio of delectable imported salumi: soppressata, mortadella and salami sits neatly spooned heaps of a chickpea and carrot salad, marinated roasted red peppers, shredded eggplant, mashed tuna and tangy anchovies draped over white beans. Even more perfect bites, hot peppers stuffed with hunks of mozzarella, slices of creamy burrata and grilled bread. Finally, piled in the center is a mash up of cornichons, olives, caperberries and pickled cauliflower. There is a tiny bar across the dining room which is mostly empty. I picture myself returning just to sit there and snack feast on this. 

The pasta dishes are superb - elevated by house made meats. In my Orecchiette Alla Salsica ($25) with peas and favas, there is free form house made sausage, while Adam's Rigatoni alle Polpette di Maile ($25) features Berkshire Pork Meatballs in tomato gravy. We both went with full portions and I took plenty of leftovers home so depending on your appetite, or your next destination, you might consider a half for $14. 

We decided to skip for dessert! I was even feeling too stuffed for a cappuccino and tiramisu, which is so not like me.

Where simple romance is matched with exquisite Italian cuisine, Marco is the true definition of a North End hidden gem. Bravi! 

Marco

253 Hanover St #2

Boston, MA 02113