Where to Eat in Newport, Oregon

Oregon landscapes have been taking center stage and now I'm excited to share some terrific food and drink finds from our third road trip destination, Newport!

We arrived to our hotel Hallmark Resort around 7:30 pm on a Wednesday evening and quickly headed out to dinner; no longer strangers to the early restaurant closing times in these parts! After a fulfilling but long day hiking, beach combing and driving I was craving comfort food. Noodle Café in the well known Newport Bayfront turned out to be a perfect choice. A no-frills space serving affordable Pan-Asian fare with local seafood, hand tossed noodles and made from scratch soup stocks, I felt like we tapped into a local haunt.

 Crab Wontons made with local Dungeness crab meat + cream cheese were an excellent prelude to Ramen Noodle Soup featuring a miso Japanese broth with shrimp tempura. This bowl offered just the comfort and warmth I craved. The House Special Wok Tossed Udon showcased the bounty of Newport Bay with shrimp and scallops, plus calamari and vegetables in a garlic soy sauce.

While at Noodle Café Bob and I were discussing our plans for breakfast. At my mention of heading to La Maison the woman next to us chimed in to sing its praises. She turned out to be Celeste of the family that owns local Mo's Seafood restaurants. We got to talking about the blog and before she left, Celeste slipped me a note to text her if we wanted to visit Mo's for a bowl of their famous Clam Chowder and Marionberry Cobbler on her. How sweet!

With her glowing recommendation we headed to La Maison Bakery & Café the next morning where superb three egg omelets come with giant flaky croissants, creamy butter and sticky-sweet jams from France. This was an absolutely phenomenal breakfast and one we won't soon forget. No matter what dish you choose, the Bananas & Cream to start are a must. La Maison also serves lunch. 

Fresh Bananas and Cream ($5) with toasted hazelnuts and brown sugar / Loire Valley Omelet ($10.25) grilled artichokes, mushrooms, Gruyere cheese and artichoke sauce / Paris Omelet ($10) French brie wrapped in prosciutto dusted with fresh chives.

Our second night in the beautiful Bayfront community brought us to Local Ocean Seafoods, a casual yet sophisticated fish market and grill. The bright industrial space is defined by an open kitchen and large windows with garage style glass doors. This was the first restaurant we visited that was truly bustling with clientele. We spent our half-hour wait admiring the massive fishing boats docked in the harbor across the street. 

We started with a creamy Roasted Garlic & Dungeness Crab Soup. I sipped on a local red wine Rubio Syrah-Pinot Noir from Penner Ash Vineyards in Willamette Valley. For our entrees, the Grilled Halibut comes over a heaping portion of swiss chard, edamame and bacon mingling with Udon noodles in a ponzu sauce. Pan Fried Yaquina Bay Oysters are panko buttermilk crusted, served with fennel slaw and fries. For creatively prepared, super fresh dock-to-table seafood, I would highly recommend Local Ocean. 

Consecutive nights after dinner we hit up the only bar and only spot open late (until midnight) on Bay Boulevard The Rogue Bayfront Public House. We were happy campers here, mingling with the upbeat bartenders and making friends with like minded travelers. 

We met a couple from Chicago who was staying at the same hotel, in the room directly above us. What are the chances? We got bottles of beer to-go and continued the party on their balcony! For some reason I always remember this conversation with them when comparing notes on where we ate in town. "Why would you come all the way here and go to a noodle joint?!" 

Because person I just met who is calling me out: they have comforting Asian cuisine (score) with LOCAL SEAFOOD (win) overlooking the Bayfront and no one knows about it. Sometimes the goal is to follow your instincts/cravings and eat where the locals do. After all, this is where the owner of Mo's Seafood eats on her night off!

And speaking of. Finally, Mo's. These family owned seafood restaurants are a local institution, so I knew we had to take Celeste up on her offer. We headed to the original Bayfront location for an early lunch before departing to Willamette Valley. Our cheerful waitress Debbie was in-the-know and promptly served us our chowder and cobbler at no charge. The New England style chowder offered smooth, velvety, medium-thick broth loaded with small chunks of potatoes, bits of bacon, and briny clams, dusted with paprika and parsley. Mo's has truly perfected NE Clam chowder out here on the Oregon Coast. It was THAT GOOD. And I can easily see why the cobbler is a must order. Vanilla ice cream pools into plump, sweet, tart and juicy berries overflowing from a homemade flaky crust. Heaven!

 Mo's Claim Chowder ($5.50) - what made them famous! / Fried Calamari ($9.95)
lightly breaded tubes and tentacles served with cocktail and tartar sauce / Rogue "Mo" Ale Hefeweizen ($5.25) / Marion Berry Cobbler ($5.25) - Mo's signature homemade dessert.

[Recap - all are fondly recommended!]

Breakfast: La Maison / 315 SW 9th St 

Carl's Coffee @ Nye Beach / 715 NW Beach Drive

Lunch: Mo's Seafood / The Original Mo's: 622 SW Bay Blvd

Dinner: Noodle Café / 837 SW Bay Blvd 

Local Ocean Seafoods / 213 SE Bay Blvd

Drinks: Rogue Bayfront Public House / 784 SW Bay Blvd 

Rogue Brewer's on The Bay / 2320 OSU Drive

second beer photo source

Cape Disappointment | Washington

From Astoria we drove to Cape Disappointment State Park located just outside the small town of Ilwaco, Washington. Driving over the pretty sea foam green Astoria-Megler Bridge as it stands against the bright blue sky and deep evergreen forest is an experience in itself. At 4.1 miles long it clocks in as the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. Add to that it has a steep incline that takes you to soaring heights for one impressive driving-over-a-bridge experience.

We spent the first half of our day at Dead Man's Cove, discovered on a whim when hiking up to Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. We had grabbed lunch to-go from Blue Scorcher Bakery in town and this cove beckoned us to enjoy a picnic lunch on its sandy, driftwood filled shores. A delicious spinach + tomato quiche and a red pepper + potato focaccia sandwich proved we did find recommendation worthy food in Astoria after all! We also had a bottle of Rogue Oregasmic IPA which was a favorite among the eight we sampled the night before at Pier 39 Public House. 

It was the warmest day of our trip and I'm so glad we got to enjoy the sunshine in this magical little cove. And the views from the lighthouse did not disappoint. PUN INTENDED!

Astoria | Oregon

Astoria is a charming old fishing town where the mighty Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean. We arrived just in time to witness this gorgeous sunset on Pier 39. Talk about a warm welcome. 

After that epic Pacific Coast sunset we discovered Rouge Pier 39 Public House at the end of the pier (in the former Bumble Bee Tuna Cannery) and decided to stay for dinner. We shared Smoked Salmon Chowder ($4), Kimchi Crab Sliders ($9), and a Blue Chicken Pizza ($14). The food was good, the chowder being my favorite, however, Rogue Beer is the real star. They brew a massive amount of styles and flavors with a sense of humor. My sampler contains: Pumpkin Patch Ale, Chipotle Ale, Good Chit Pilsner and 4 Hop IPA. Dessert in the form of a Rogue Beer Float ($6) with vanilla ice cream started a love affair with their Chocolate Stout.

On our second evening in town we ate at Buoy Beer Co which was a disappointing meal. I did not have glowing recommendations for anywhere in particular and we quickly realized (by the reaction of the hotel front desk staff) that 8:30 pm was much too late to be heading out to dinner. Oh, these sleepy coastal towns! Buoy was one of the few places we could choose from and they close at 10 pm. They served us Willapa Bay Oysters ($10) on plastic ramen noodle soup spoons over blue died pebbles. We ate them and we were fine, physically. Emotionally, I am scarred for life. I kindly asked the waitress why they serve them like that and it did not seem to phase her "we like to do things differently here." Yikes. Bob's Tempura Fish & Chips ($12) were sup-par and I had Local Salmon (mkt) which was fine. The atmosphere is cool and the beer is good. But I can't get past those oysters. (Albatross & Co sounded like the best choice in town, but are closed on Sunday and Monday.) Fort George Brewery is open until midnight so we went there after dinner for a beer.

 Yes, Astoria is full of charm: the Riverwalk, the old piers, the barking seals, the iconic bridge I so loved photographing, and the quaint houses perched on a hilltop neighborhood. But it has an industrial, gritty, commercial feel to it as well. On the stretch of route 30 that passes through town there's a plethora of fast food chains, some sketchy looking dive bars and old motels. On the steeped-in-time Duane Street there's unique shops, an old theater, and a J.C. Penney with a storefront window display circa 1990. Oh and the Goonies house is a no-go as the new owners have had it with the fans. 

I loved perusing Astoria Vintage Hardware on 15th Street. I would have liked to check out the Columbia River Maritime Museum as the history of the river is fascinating to me, but it was way too nice outside to be museum going. Also, we saw Humpback Whales along the Riverwalk! Lucky us we got to see them so close - we were out on a morning run and I did not have my camera.

Astoria was different than we expected in many ways, which is not a bad thing at all. That is what travel and seeing new towns is all about. Our accommodations at Cannery Pier Hotel plus all the beautiful spots to visit nearby are what truly enhanced our visit to Astoria. Those are up next!