Deuxave | Back Bay

In September of 2010 Chef Christopher Coombs opened Deuxave, named creatively for the two avenues - Commonwealth and Massachusetts - that intersect the location. The 26 year old chef's goal was fill a niche for less expensive high end dining in the Back Bay.We began our evening at the polished marble bar lined with flameless candles, the space was dimly lit and exuded a romantic elegance. From an admirable craft cocktail menu I chose the Red Charlotte ($11) a blend of vodka, red wine reduction, allspice, double citrus and champagne. The red wine and allspice were doubly fitting for the holiday and the wintry weather, balanced by bright citrus flavors and bubbles. I adored this drink.

Shortly after ordering drinks we were lead down a narrow hallway bordered by plush booths into the sophisticated gray toned dining room. A fire crackles in an exposed stone fireplace. Sharp nooks lined with dark wood tables are offset by creamy gauze curtains. Bulbs glow from behind white rectangular panels of a funky oversized chandelier. Through large arched windows offset with brick we gazed at the fancy residences on Mass Ave. With three fantastic sounding options for each course, we had some tough decisions on our hands. We never felt rushed though and took our time deciding while mingling with the friendly couple next to us. They were fishing up dessert and eager to offer recommendations. (And quick to comment the second I whipped out my camera, they seemed excited about the fact that I was photographing the meal.) I started with the Coeur a la Foie Gras Torchon (Coeur means heart in French! loving this) which came with equally adorable crispy toast hearts. The smooth buttery foie was nicely accented by a persimmon and pistachio chutney, perfect swirls of pomegranate pepper syrup as well the juicy airils and tangy hearts of fire. This course was so pretty and creative, not to mention the perfect portion. (Not too filling, but not too measly, either.) The meal was off to a great start. The "Night Moves" Scituate Lobster Gnocchi is both quizzical and typical on paper; what is with the night moves?! / lobster gnocchi - been there, done that. Our nice neighbors recommended this first and without hesitation so I decided to go for it. Turns out "Night Moves" is the name of the ship that brings in the catch! And you would be hard pressed to find it used in such extraordinary fashion, so been there done that this dish is certainly not. Unexpected ingredients from green grapes and pearl onions to curried walnuts and foraged mushrooms mingle with plenty of lobster chunks and a whole claw. The potato gnocchi is browned just so to offer a wisp of crispiness with every bite. The six components are bathed in a complex citrus fricassee. I loved creating different bites with each of them. I loved this dish. For my main course I feasted on the Lamb Trio including a Colorado Rack Persillade, Merguez Sausage and a Pave of Milk Braised Shoulder. The rack was served rare, bright pink and tender, encrusted by a crispy persillade which added a nice garlicky flavor. This was my first time ever having Merguez, a fresh lamb sausage, it was soft in texture and heavily spiced, complimented by green flageolets (a type of kidney beans). Finally, the shoulder was a small rectangular cube which was braised until crispy on the outside with strands of shredded meat on the inside. Everything was served over the natural jus, a bright fennel-parsley puree and crispy escarole. This was another dynamic plate of food, and once again I truly enjoyed everything about it. I was also impressed at how swiftly and evenly paced this meal was. The wait time in between each course was spot on, never rushed but never too long.

Ending the evening on another high note A Chocolate Love Affair was a whimsical plate of what I crave most on Valentines day. A brushstroke of sticky sweet raspberry was a necessary contrast to the rich dark chocolate torte, a dense chocolate cake, and white chocolate bombes.

A plump quinelle of homemade milk chocolate glace over oreo-esque crumbles was my favorite element of the bunch. A close second was that shot of creamy chocolate milkshake to wash it all down.

The prix fix menu this evening was $99. Regardless of the high priced holiday, a meal here can certainly add up. If you were to indulge in four courses of a similar nature here on any other day your food would be about $90. (But then, you would not get foie gras shaped hearts!) Adam generously spent more because he knows I love to celebrate Valentine's day. However, assuming your average meal is not going to be four courses to yourself, the good news is it can only get more affordable from there.

Deuxave is at once an establishment that caters to its wealthy neighbors and a destination worthy of a splurge. At the forefront are charismatic plates of exemplary food and cocktails. Add this Back Bay restaurant to your Boston must visit list for sure!

Deuxave

371 Commonwealth Ave

Boston, MA 02115

A North End Favorite: Mamma Maria

I departed from Fort Lauderdale, Florida on Valentine's Day arriving home around 7pm to surprise late dinner reservations at Mamma Maria! Located at 3 North Square on a small hill overlooking the city, it is the closest restaurant in proximity to our apartment and after a long eventful weekend and hours of travel, it was nice to only walk a few hundred feet and celebrate in a romantic setting. A thoughtful gesture preceded by a card and flowers, Adam was also thrilled to be able to once again dine here. Some years ago the pappardelle pasta with roasted rabbit captivated him and he has been proclaiming Mamma Maria his favorite North End restaurant ever since.Mamma Maria is a far cry from the classic red sauce joints of the neighborhood, serving regional Northern Italian countryside cuisine in a 19th Century brick row house with five intimate dining rooms spread over two floors. Mamma Maria exudes class and elegance while remaining cozy and authentic. We entered down a creaking narrow hallway to the coat check, peering in on the street level dining rooms as we waited, where floor to ceiling windows overlook the historic cobblestone streets. A moment later we were lead up the tiny winding staircase to a small back dining room where a dramatic panorama of the city skyline glowed in the distance. For Valentines Day they were offering a $60 prix fix three course menu. The choices were abundant and impressive, the antipasti course offering eight dishes from Tuna Tartare to Mozarella di Bufalo to Squash Soup, and the entrée selection bursting at the seams with nine choices from Halibut to Sucking Pig, Lobster Pasta to Osso Buco and more. We were given ample time to enjoy each others company and decide on our choices as we sipped our drinks, a perfectly poured Dark N Stormy ($9) for him and a NV Prosecco Zardetto ($9) for her. Enjoying a rustic loaf of bread with a flavorful pesto spread and selection of gourmet olives, the night was off to a charming start. The picture taking was almost forgone in an effort to simply relish in the holiday, almost. Adam never seems to mind and I can never seem to help it, especially when loaves of bread and dark n stormys look as elegant and inviting as these did. Tonight it is not my best dinner photography to date, but one of our best meals in the North End, without a doubt. Rabbit Polenta offered slow cooked Vermont raised rabbit in the Piedmont Style. Piedmont is a region of Northwestern Italy known for its rich dishes, red wine and slow food. Slow Food is a movement dedicated to preserving the tradition of handmade, artisanal cuisine. This dish brilliantly captures just that, producing tender gamey slices of rabbit over creamy polenta laced with crispy pancetta in a delicious sauce flavored with fresh rosemary. This supremely authentic dish has added Piedmont, Italy to a list of destinations I'd love to someday travel. Adam raved all the same about his Lobster Gnocchi containing butter poached Maine lobster over made-to-order gnocchi carbonara-style with black winter truffle. I went out on a limb for my main course (as if Rabbit wasn't exciting enough) and ordered the Suckling Pig.
Initially intimidated at this intense plate of food, I dug into the rotisserie-roasted suckling pig from Quebec wondering what I got myself into. The pig has a very distinct pork flavor, a rich taste that garnered textures of crisp skin, tender meat and moist pork belly. I came to adore the versatile textures with each bite.The pig was complimented by a warm salad of mission figs, toasted barley, baked apple and crisp arugula. A layer of tangy Gorgonzola was melted over the baked apple, which made for an enticing addition to the plate. Photographs of the leftovers for lunch the next day does justice to the individual components, the sweet luscious figs and bits of the apple, otherwise hidden in the actual restaurant pictures!Adam ordered the Bistecca a wood-grilled 16oz prime rib eye steak with aged balsamic from Modena, roasted baby turnips, and tri-colored fingerling potatoes. He cleaned his plate commenting on the perfectly cooked steak and the crispiness of the baby turnips. For the dessert course Mamma Maria offered a sampler plate for two. The element of surprise both intrigued and delighted. I was thrilled with the fact that they offered a Panna Cotta, but not just any, a lavender panna cotta drizzled in a lavender honey sauce. The texture was spot on, the ideal balance of smooth gelatin to sweet creaminess. I was shocked to learn this was Adam's first time eating panna cotta. As he remarked how much he enjoyed it, that somehow sparked the conversation of him admitting that he didn't know what it was. To think all the times we have gone out to eat together....I never knew he hadn't tried it, and he never knew it was a favorite dessert of mine. The Apple Tart was a flaky bite of warm crust topped with mascarpone cheese and a drizzle of honey. The sweet honey contrasted with the tart apple, and both benefited from the mascarpone, a traditional Italian cream cheese.The Chocolate Fonduta offered a bold cocoa flavor that was not overwhelmingly sweet. Dipped in the bowl were two pieces of slightly crisp cake squares finished off with a dusting of powered sugar. The Fig Puff Pastry was a cinnamon sugar coated bite of crisp flaky layers plated over lusciously sweet fig jam. A brilliant display of desserts all around left us highly content. The attention to detail and Italian authenticity exceedingly evident in every aspect of our three course meal makes this well worth the $60 price point. Our service was not only impeccable from start to finish, but or waiter was highly engaging. Eager to offer insight on the dishes, his natural passion for food and hospitality shined through at every instant.A dining experience where seasonally inspired foods are emphasized by traditional Italian cooking in an old-world intimate setting, Mamma Maria exceeds expectations and delivers on all accounts. Providing a memorable Valentine's Day 2011, I highly recommend this North End restaurant for a celebratory occasion worthy dine.

Mamma Maria

3 North Square

Boston MA, 02113

Boston, MA