A Cevicheria | Principe Real

We are moving right along through our day in Lisbon, we've wandered from Baixa + Rossio Square crossing Avenida de Liberdade into an upscale trendy neighborhood called Principe Real. Principe Real is home to 19th century mansions, fashionable shops, art galleries, and nightlife. We found ourselves at Atalho Real on a whim. A gorgeous glass of vinho verde hits the spot every time. Have I proclaimed my love for Portuguese green wine in every post? I think yes. The wine was actually preceded by a round of cocktails. Ryder is napping and please note Camden's 'Texas BBQ' Pringles in the photo below. Favorite snacks acquired at a mini mercado prior to happy hour = hunger meltdowns avoided.

Mom and Dad snacks = Pica-Pau! 

Tiras de carne grelhadas e servidas com bolo do caco, pickles e molhos. 

Tiras de carne are strips of steak. 

Grelhadas means grilled. 

Bolo do Caco is the bread. 

Pickles e molhos are the two sauces.

We took the boys to play in a nearby park, Jardim do Principe Real. There are a few children running around plus convivial groups enjoying dinner and wine on the picnic tables nearby. There were also some neat sculptures in the garden. 

The sun dips below the hill in the distance and we head just around the corner to dinner at A Cevicheria on a recommendation of Bob's co-worker. 

A Cevicheria features the Peruvian dish of ceviche with a touch of Portuguese influence. We have been eating lots of traditional food and this is a refreshing change of pace. Pisco Sours in slender champagne flutes prelude the meal; a traditional South American cocktail shaken with Peruvian Brandy, lime, frothy egg white and angostura bitters. Piscos top every table at the restaurant, so definitely order a round! I'm also fairly certain the bar window that fronts the street is famous in the neighborhood for Pisco Sours to-go.

We are seated at a high top outside, and it is a cooler and slightly windy evening! Inside the restaurant it is so chic and cozy. If we didn't have a stroller and two kids we would have snagged seats at the polished bar backed by shellac white subway tiles under a giant octopus sculpture. That is merely a recommendation to the wise, not a complaint about our seats. 

Taco de Tártaro de Lombo de Atum (€18,70) Tortilha de Trigo, Atun, Soja, Sésamo, Gengibre, Togarashi e Tobiko

Tuna Tartare Taco: Wheat Tortilla, Tuna, Soy, Sesame, Ginger, Togarashi and Tobiko

Ceviche de Atum e Foie Gras (€19,70) Beterraba, Framboesa, Líchia e Avelã

Tuna + Foie Gras Ceviche: Beets, Raspberries, Hazelnuts

Ceviche de Salmão e Pitaia (€18,60) Tapioca, Coco, Ananás e Caju

Salmon + Dragon Fruit Ceviche: Tapioca, Coconut, Pineapple and Cashew

This is certainly some of the most inventive and delicious ceviche we will ever eat; I am so glad we took the recommend.

So this was our last night in Lisbon! Three nights here flew by. We did so much, yet so much remains undiscovered. I am pretty sure we missed a few popular spots and squares, we somehow did not set foot in a cathedral or a church, and we did not make it out to Belem! I could have spent a couple more days exploring this city for sure. 

The boys on our last morning, ready to hit the road. We are headed south to Lagos on the Algarve Coast.

Atalho Real

Calçada da Patriarcal 40, 1250-182 

Lisboa, Portugal

A Cevicheria

R. Dom Pedro V 129, 1250-096 

Lisboa, Portugal

Frenchie Wine Bistro

Bienvenue, Frenchie! To quote Boston Magazines top 25 new restaurants issue: every neighborhood in Paris has a Frenchie: an overachiever all day café that will serve you beyond-solid renditions of a dozen or so classics. 

True to it's name, this subterranean South End Bistro transcends you to the chic streets of Paris, France. The atmosphere isn't trying to hard. The neighborhood crowd is young and hip. All white pressed tin ceilings meet white exposed brick walls with a single white fluorescent sign that reads In Vino Veritas. In wine there is truth.

While in the midst of wedding planning (the to do list that never ends) an impromptu date night book-ended by cocktails at The Beehive and beers at Anchovies was the prefect respite. Because it was -14 degrees outside we ordered everything of the hot side of the menu, which meant lots of rich dishes and subsequently lots of bread as a vessel for delicious bites of garlicky escargots, slippery foie gras and creamy goat cheese. 

Escargot Toast ($11) on grilled country bread, lavished with herbed garlic butter.
Foie Gras ($18) accompanied by candied quince and crunchy hazelnuts over brioche.
Goat Cheese a la plancha ($9) - grilled boucheron cheese is a wonderful thing, especially when paired with raw honey and a concord grape compote.
Beef Bourguignon ($19) with brussels sprouts + pearl onions takes comfort to another level. And yes, we needed another bread basket to swipe every drop of that earthy red wine mushroom sauce. 
Chocolate Croissant Pudding ($10) - flaky croissant layers are sandwiched between dense moka (espresso) flavored chocolate with a scoop of housemade vanilla ice cream. 

Frenchie spoils us in the wine department with 32 carefully selected by the glass (32!) I loved the Daniele Croquet Sancerre Rouge (Loire Valley, France) a delicate red that paired expertly with the food. Also - not sure I've ever had RED SANCERRE so that is noteworthy!

Their menu design is fun and playful, I was charmed by the little black and white illustrations and the fact that they don't take themselves to seriously. Lines like "what the fork is for dinner" and "voulez-vous cafe avec moi?" keep things light. The food, however, is taken very seriously and it is utterly fantastic! 

P.S. I got a macro lens for Christmas and this was my first time using it. Please excuse the blurry portions of the images. 

Frenchie Boston

560 Tremont St

Boston, MA 02118

Savannah Fun

Savannah impressed on so many levels. It is picturesque, quaint and charming by day, spooky and haunted with serious underground/prohibition vibes by night. The food and drink scene here is so terrifically refreshing and unique. Love love love you, Savannah, Georgia!

The Atlantic | 102 E Victory Dr

Our ladies weekend kicked off with dinner at The Atlantic - a neighborhood eatery + imbibery set in an old gas station. We were seated in a funky booth with a trapezoid shaped table tucked between the crowded dining room and bustling bar. 

 Can I tell you how incredibly charmed I was with the bathrooms? (Mirror selfies, globe light sconces, a perfect sink, blue tiled floors, bright orange lockers). Of course, after I spent way too much time in there my girlfriend Eden who shares my love of cool spaces knew why. She immediatley asked, "Do they have fun bathrooms!?" 

The cocktails and wines were served in chic sets of curvy glassware, pictured above is Amalie with gin, vermouth blanc, lemon + bitters. The food was mostly hits and a few misses. I don't remember everything we shared, but pictured above is the duck breast over watercress, cabbage, blueberries + wild rice in a turmeric vinaigrette. Below: ratatouille kebabs with pesto.

The ALLEY CAT Lounge | 207 West Broughton Street Unit B

 Enter through the alley into the depths of a basement lounge and you're greeted with a newspaper menu where a page is dedicated to each type of spirit, plus one for the old fashioneds, another to punch bowls, and can't forget a horoscope cocktails section! The Alley Cat Lounge is a must visit in Savannah; an underground cocktail den sure to impress.

Drinking: ACL 1806 Old Fashioned - bourbon, demerara, angostura + orange bitters, lemon twist

The GREY | 109 Martin Luther King Jr Blvd

Occupying a refurbished 1938 Greyhound bus depot, it's no secret that the owners painstakingly restored the art deco space to its original luster. The Grey captures the retro charms of the time and further elevates the experience with polished service and modern Port City southern food. I was enamored with this restaurant - definitely my #1 choice.

Pictured: Foie + Grits - green grapes, red wine gravy, onion / Country Pasta with pork belly, parmesan + black pepper / Quail - ras el hanout, arugula, benne seed / Beer Battered Shrimp with green goddess, cilantro, pepper relish 

[photos 1+2  credit - her blog also has some great SAV guides]

The Olde Pink House | 23 Abercorn Street

Our last dinner was at Savannah institution The Olde Pink House serving traditional meets inventive low country cuisine in an 18th century Colonial Mansion. It was definitely the fanciest meal and my sweet girls surprised me with a bottle of Veuve Cliquot to celebrate my being engaged! We shared Blackened Oysters with watermelon radish and a pear, apricot + green tomato chutney. I enjoyed Crispy Lobster Tails with sweet chili dijon, bacon buttermilk mashed potatoes and butter beans.

The Brice | A Kimpton Hotel | 601 East Bay Street

Perfectly organized shelves of books on books on books, interesting gallery walls, a sharply decorated lobby, a comfy courtyard and a serene pool with retro vibes, The Brice Kimpton is a welcoming boutique hotel set on the far end of historic River Street. When Tricia and I arrived, the concierge promptly offered us wine. "Two?!" he question before he swiftly appeared with not two glasses, but two bottles of white wine. How's that for Southern Hospitality?!

Everywhere else I would recommend, plus the outtake photos. (We sure do get around!)

House of Mati Hara - prohibition cocktails + 1920s flappers - your hotel should know the password.
Leopold's Ice Cream - really, really good ice cream. My favorite flavor of all time Coffee Oreo did not disappoint! 
Treylor Park / Hitch - Two spots, we went to Hitch only. Casual, modern space, good pop in for lunch.
Bohemian Hotel Savannah Riverfront - visit the Rocks on the Roof bar on the 5th floor.
Baracuda Bob's - grab a beer on draft and peruse River Street - visit Savannah's Waving Girl! 
b. Matthews Eatery - terrific breakfast and brunch eats + cocktails. Lucked out with 4 bar seats after we were told there was an hour plus wait. 
Savannah Tap House - Sunday Football calls! We watched the Patriots game here. Great crowd, beer selection + bar food.
Jen's + Friends - cozy bar featuring hundreds of martinis - every flavor you could imagine from rice krispy treat to birthday cake to bananas foster.