A Cevicheria | Principe Real

We are moving right along through our day in Lisbon, we've wandered from Baixa + Rossio Square crossing Avenida de Liberdade into an upscale trendy neighborhood called Principe Real. Principe Real is home to 19th century mansions, fashionable shops, art galleries, and nightlife. We found ourselves at Atalho Real on a whim. A gorgeous glass of vinho verde hits the spot every time. Have I proclaimed my love for Portuguese green wine in every post? I think yes. The wine was actually preceded by a round of cocktails. Ryder is napping and please note Camden's 'Texas BBQ' Pringles in the photo below. Favorite snacks acquired at a mini mercado prior to happy hour = hunger meltdowns avoided.

Mom and Dad snacks = Pica-Pau! 

Tiras de carne grelhadas e servidas com bolo do caco, pickles e molhos. 

Tiras de carne are strips of steak. 

Grelhadas means grilled. 

Bolo do Caco is the bread. 

Pickles e molhos are the two sauces.

We took the boys to play in a nearby park, Jardim do Principe Real. There are a few children running around plus convivial groups enjoying dinner and wine on the picnic tables nearby. There were also some neat sculptures in the garden. 

The sun dips below the hill in the distance and we head just around the corner to dinner at A Cevicheria on a recommendation of Bob's co-worker. 

A Cevicheria features the Peruvian dish of ceviche with a touch of Portuguese influence. We have been eating lots of traditional food and this is a refreshing change of pace. Pisco Sours in slender champagne flutes prelude the meal; a traditional South American cocktail shaken with Peruvian Brandy, lime, frothy egg white and angostura bitters. Piscos top every table at the restaurant, so definitely order a round! I'm also fairly certain the bar window that fronts the street is famous in the neighborhood for Pisco Sours to-go.

We are seated at a high top outside, and it is a cooler and slightly windy evening! Inside the restaurant it is so chic and cozy. If we didn't have a stroller and two kids we would have snagged seats at the polished bar backed by shellac white subway tiles under a giant octopus sculpture. That is merely a recommendation to the wise, not a complaint about our seats. 

Taco de Tártaro de Lombo de Atum (€18,70) Tortilha de Trigo, Atun, Soja, Sésamo, Gengibre, Togarashi e Tobiko

Tuna Tartare Taco: Wheat Tortilla, Tuna, Soy, Sesame, Ginger, Togarashi and Tobiko

Ceviche de Atum e Foie Gras (€19,70) Beterraba, Framboesa, Líchia e Avelã

Tuna + Foie Gras Ceviche: Beets, Raspberries, Hazelnuts

Ceviche de Salmão e Pitaia (€18,60) Tapioca, Coco, Ananás e Caju

Salmon + Dragon Fruit Ceviche: Tapioca, Coconut, Pineapple and Cashew

This is certainly some of the most inventive and delicious ceviche we will ever eat; I am so glad we took the recommend.

So this was our last night in Lisbon! Three nights here flew by. We did so much, yet so much remains undiscovered. I am pretty sure we missed a few popular spots and squares, we somehow did not set foot in a cathedral or a church, and we did not make it out to Belem! I could have spent a couple more days exploring this city for sure. 

The boys on our last morning, ready to hit the road. We are headed south to Lagos on the Algarve Coast.

Atalho Real

Calçada da Patriarcal 40, 1250-182 

Lisboa, Portugal

A Cevicheria

R. Dom Pedro V 129, 1250-096 

Lisboa, Portugal

Rossio Square + Baixa | Lisbon

 

Day 2 in Lisbon! Bob had to work this morning so the boys and I headed out on a walk in search of their two favorite things: toys and snacks. Perhaps we were in search of my favorite thing too: brightly colored azulejo tiles. 

Beyond the construction which was an actual barrier across street intersections on Rua da Prata we discovered an entire elegantly laid out pedestrian friendly area, where wide open streets are perfect for strolling and shopping. I got a Super Bock tee shirt. Camden got Milka Chocolate and a Lisbon tram tee. Ryder got a Lollipop. They got a set of toy race cars to share. 

I learned the streets of the Baixa grid are named after old professions. Rua dos Douradores (our street) is after gilders. Rua dos Correiros are saddlers. Then Rua da Fanqueiros is fabric traders. 

We regrouped with Bob at the Airbnb as he finished work and headed out together down Rua dos Sapateiros (cobblers!) under the Arco do Banderia into the hub of Baixa, Rossio Square.  The waves of the ocean represented in the pavement tiles really spoke to me. As did A Ginjinha Espineria a tiny bar counter in Rossio where you order a sweet liqueur made from sour cherries known as Ginja. It is served in a shot glass and you sip it. 

More specifically, Ginjinha is Morello Cherries soaked in a distilled spirit called aquardente. There are multiple locations of tiny bars that serve it, constituting a quintessential Lisbon experience. There might be a line but it moves quickly and everyone mingles outside anyways so it's fun. 

It is actually really cool for me to connect the tiles here in Portugal with the tiles on the promenades fronting Ipanema and Copacabana beaches. Portugal's are the OG with Brazil modeled after them. 

The shopping and the strolling continued. Camden picked out trinkets for his cousin Lilah, his neighborhood best friends Sammy and Adeline, and his Nana! Then, we turned down Rua das Portas de Santo Antao a pedestrian only walkway off Rossio Square. Drinks at a local Cervejaria brought to you by the racecars the boys picked out earlier. A paper tablecloth lending itself as a racetrack brought to you by Camden's creativity / happenstance. Then we stopped briefly at Elevador do Lavra before continuing to Avenida Da Liberidade. 

S U P E R  B O C K love. 

Day 2: Still so into you, Lisbon. The rest of DAY 2 and NIGHT 3 choose your own adventures next!

Time Out Market | Lisboa

 

Time Out Market is a blast. From Chiado neighborhood we meandered down Pink Street (where the umbrellas are) to reach the original all-star line up of Lisbon fare in Cais do Sodre neighborhood. Time Out Bar is situated at the entrance, and cocktails are immediately flowing from the bustling line up of bartenders. The boys have wild energy right now so Bob and I are balancing sipping drinks with making sure they are behaving! Bird Macumba (€12) with rum, Aperol, vanilla, passion fruit, pineapple juice, lime and raspberry syrup helps with this task. It's a beautifully crafted drink. 

Time Out is so much fun and crowded, the energy is sparked by an excitement to enjoy the best of Lisbon food under one roof. We casually strolled with cocktails in hand to check out the menu at each five star restaurant turned high end market stall.

Sea Me Peixaria Moderna has a huge fan in me! Their brick and mortar is in Chiado serving Portuguese Japanese Fusion. I had black tempura fried cuttlefish, gorgeous oysters, and seared scallops with mango tartare. Bob picked one of the chef named stalls and his beef cheek meal was perfectly executed, undeniably comforting. Time Out Market begs of you to linger. We enjoyed good food and glasses of crisp vinho verde with no sense of urgency. We chatted with our dining companions in close proximity. The girls across from us have been here two nights in a row and are impressed Ryder is eating cuttlefish dredged in black tempura. Bob, the boys and I shared Crush Doughnuts for dessert before we embarked on a relaxing walk home, passing through Praca do Municipo. 

Once we're home to our clean and contemporary Baixa Airbnb it feels nice to be welcomed back. My little city adventurers took a warm shower while Bob and I drank some of the vinho tinto our hosts left. I love a choose your own adventure day to discover a new city. Lisbon is a spectacular one for which to do just that. 

Time Out Market

Mercado da Ribeira

Avenida 24 de Julho

1200-479 Lisboa, Portugal