A Cevicheria | Principe Real

We are moving right along through our day in Lisbon, we've wandered from Baixa + Rossio Square crossing Avenida de Liberdade into an upscale trendy neighborhood called Principe Real. Principe Real is home to 19th century mansions, fashionable shops, art galleries, and nightlife. We found ourselves at Atalho Real on a whim. A gorgeous glass of vinho verde hits the spot every time. Have I proclaimed my love for Portuguese green wine in every post? I think yes. The wine was actually preceded by a round of cocktails. Ryder is napping and please note Camden's 'Texas BBQ' Pringles in the photo below. Favorite snacks acquired at a mini mercado prior to happy hour = hunger meltdowns avoided.

Mom and Dad snacks = Pica-Pau! 

Tiras de carne grelhadas e servidas com bolo do caco, pickles e molhos. 

Tiras de carne are strips of steak. 

Grelhadas means grilled. 

Bolo do Caco is the bread. 

Pickles e molhos are the two sauces.

We took the boys to play in a nearby park, Jardim do Principe Real. There are a few children running around plus convivial groups enjoying dinner and wine on the picnic tables nearby. There were also some neat sculptures in the garden. 

The sun dips below the hill in the distance and we head just around the corner to dinner at A Cevicheria on a recommendation of Bob's co-worker. 

A Cevicheria features the Peruvian dish of ceviche with a touch of Portuguese influence. We have been eating lots of traditional food and this is a refreshing change of pace. Pisco Sours in slender champagne flutes prelude the meal; a traditional South American cocktail shaken with Peruvian Brandy, lime, frothy egg white and angostura bitters. Piscos top every table at the restaurant, so definitely order a round! I'm also fairly certain the bar window that fronts the street is famous in the neighborhood for Pisco Sours to-go.

We are seated at a high top outside, and it is a cooler and slightly windy evening! Inside the restaurant it is so chic and cozy. If we didn't have a stroller and two kids we would have snagged seats at the polished bar backed by shellac white subway tiles under a giant octopus sculpture. That is merely a recommendation to the wise, not a complaint about our seats. 

Taco de Tártaro de Lombo de Atum (€18,70) Tortilha de Trigo, Atun, Soja, Sésamo, Gengibre, Togarashi e Tobiko

Tuna Tartare Taco: Wheat Tortilla, Tuna, Soy, Sesame, Ginger, Togarashi and Tobiko

Ceviche de Atum e Foie Gras (€19,70) Beterraba, Framboesa, Líchia e Avelã

Tuna + Foie Gras Ceviche: Beets, Raspberries, Hazelnuts

Ceviche de Salmão e Pitaia (€18,60) Tapioca, Coco, Ananás e Caju

Salmon + Dragon Fruit Ceviche: Tapioca, Coconut, Pineapple and Cashew

This is certainly some of the most inventive and delicious ceviche we will ever eat; I am so glad we took the recommend.

So this was our last night in Lisbon! Three nights here flew by. We did so much, yet so much remains undiscovered. I am pretty sure we missed a few popular spots and squares, we somehow did not set foot in a cathedral or a church, and we did not make it out to Belem! I could have spent a couple more days exploring this city for sure. 

The boys on our last morning, ready to hit the road. We are headed south to Lagos on the Algarve Coast.

Atalho Real

Calçada da Patriarcal 40, 1250-182 

Lisboa, Portugal

A Cevicheria

R. Dom Pedro V 129, 1250-096 

Lisboa, Portugal

Granada | Spain

"Oh Morocco is cool, yea Sevilla is great, but Granada, well, Granada is something else. Granada is really special, you'll see" ~ rental car agent @ the Renfe Station

She was not wrong. In fact she was completely accurate. Voicing her own strong opinion - her statement stuck with me. It was a welcome conversation as we retuned the rental car despite the fact that we were running late. We needed to grab a taxi and check into Hotel Casa 1800 before making our way to Alhambra. We had a ticketed time an hour prior to closing at 8pm. (You have to book in advance, and this was the only time slot we could get while we were here!)

After spending time in the city streets you feel it. Granada is special, something beyond, 10/10, our favorite on this trip. It's not bragging or in your face, it's sneaky stunning and casually hip. 

After our hurried arrival and rush to Alhambra we slowed it all down. We wandered. We ate good food. We leisurely shopped. We drank. We stayed out late. 

Can we move here? That's the vibe. Granada totally gave us "European city we could live in vibes". 

From the bright, clean streets of Centro with unique and pretty fountains in abundance, to the winding narrow pathways as you climb or descend the Albaicin, there's so much leisurely wandering to be had in Granada.

GRANADAAAA we love you so. 

Eat here: Pimienta Rosa | Atelier Casa de Comidas

Drink here: Mama Samba | Lemon Rock | Bar Chaplin | Calle Elvira area | 

Sad we missed: Bar Axia "heart of the Albayzin" (it was closed! situated on a charming old school plaza, looks like a perfect tapas bar stop.) Las Tomasas - originally had a dinner reservation but called an audible as timing / location didn't work out. 

Views: El Huerto | Plaza de San Nicolas

Dinner was a miss here: La Cuchara de Carmela. I guess we had high expectations and none of us were in love with our meals. 

Stay here: Hotel Casa 1800. A really unique hotel tucked in a cave like setting between the exact neighborhoods you want to be for exploring - Albaicin + Centro. A beautiful continental breakfast spread is included. The rooms felt cozy yet elegant. 

Granada - leisure, late nights + fountains. Group consensus favorite.