Dinners in The French Quarter

With so many different restaurants to choose from and a slew of recommendations passed our way, the toughest decision of vacationing in New Orleans proved choosing where to eat dinner. It seems everyone from co-workers to cab drivers had a must visit spot. Should you ever be faced with similar decisions upon planning a visit, I would highly recommend both Irene’s Cuisine and NOLA, respectively, our Friday and Saturday night dinner destinations.
After the days excursions we would venture back to the Ritz to re-group and freshen up. Dinner was a necessary first stop before the Bourbon Street craze. It was a welcome respite; a time to linger over good food, bottles of wine and lots of laughs in a more relaxed yet formal atmosphere. (Formal in comparison to Hand Grenades and Hurricanes, relaxed in the sense that we are not at a loud, rowdy bar - you catch my drift.)Irene’s offers lust worthy Creole-Italian cuisine in an old warehouse that underwent a transformation into a romantic setting housing multiple dining rooms with an antique aura. It is highly regarded by locals. You have to venture slightly off the beaten path to get here but it is still within the safe confines of the French Quarter at 539 Phillips St. It is definitely worth a trip and worth the wait. They do not take reservations and we were told to show up and hour and a half before we wanted to eat. The wait time (even though upon arrival were told 45 minutes) was closer to the hour and fifteen minute mark. We put our name in and ventured to a neighboring dive bar called Flanagan’s where we enjoyed some pre-dinner brews, a Miller High Life for me! Once we returned we were seated in one of the dimly lit dining rooms at a cozy table amongst the ever bustling scene. With smells of garlicky seafood wafting, a bottle of Pinot Noir already being poured and immediately being served a complementary Bruschetta, I knew we were in for an excellent meal. The bruschetta came just slightly toasted with the warm fluffy bread quality still intact, topped with gooey melted mozzarella cheese and thick slices of tomatoes accented by fresh basil. This proved an exciting bread (if you can even call it that) course, starting the meal of on a high-note after such a long wait. A delightful appetizer came in the form of a Soft Shell Crab, the crustacean was skillfully fried in a light batter beholding an airy crispiness giving way to sweet succulent crab meat. For my entrée I ordered the San Francisco style Cioppino ($23). Upon being served a huge oval bowl beholding shellfish bathing in a most luscious, velvety smooth saffron scented fennel infused tomato broth; I’d just about died and went to heaven.From the plump gulf shrimp to the well-executed mussels, the briny clams to the flaky fish, all of it was just outstanding. Slices of crisp ciabatta bread achieved the perfect texture for dunking without being abrasive.Seriously, this meal was perfect. Dessert saw a luxurious Crème Brulee and a rich Chocolate Hazelnut Torte in a vanilla raspberry cream sauce. The next evening we enjoyed a highly anticipated dinner at Emeril Lagasse's NOLA located in the heart of the French Quarter on 534 St Louis Street. Thankfully NOLA takes reservations and we were seated promptly upon arrival for ours at 8 pm. The celebrity chef is known for his "New" New Orleans style of cooking which is essentially Creole cuisine with contemporary American twists. The décor is in line with the cuisine, emitting touches of historic French Quarter elegance with an upscale modern industrial feel. Weathered brick walls surround high arched windows and dark gray pipes span the ceiling, serving to separate areas of the large refined warehouse space. A brightly lit open kitchen lines the far perimeter. A giant chalkboard menu boasting a list of cocktails in bold colors is tastefully eye catching set against a brick wall in the center of the room. Speaking of cocktails, I couldn't pass up a Sazerac which is a New Orleans specialty, often referred to as the oldest known cocktail in America! Made with cognac, rye whiskey, absinthe and peychaud bitters - the Sazerac is seriously strong and provided an excellent aperitif! With our meal we drank a bottle of Rose wine (the detail escapes me) but unfortunately it didn't impress us. It was lacking depth and did not stand up to the hearty creole cuisine.We shared an appetizer of Wood Oven Roasted Escargot Rockefeller ($12) with herbsaint, parmesan and herb bread crumbs. This was my first time trying Escargot! The chewy morsels were not at all intimidating and very flavorful. I'd eat Rockefeller style snails any day! My entrée of Grilled Atlantic Salmon ($28) came over a bed of black bean and sweet corn succotash mingling in a chimichurri butter sauce with a tomatillo salsa. The succotash is essentially what sold me on the dish over the more traditional orders of Shrimp n Grits or Gumbo. (Which I tasted - and they were excellent.) A unique preparation made this otherwise standard fish truly stand out. The grilled salmon displayed a nice char topped generously with dried onions whose unexpected crunch added a welcome contrast to the soft flaky fish and flavorful succotash. Desserts at NOLA are not to be missed! We enjoyed the Strawberry + Pistachio Bombe ($8) where a unique creamy pistachio ice cream shell encases a pink strawberry sorbet over a thick strawberry compote. It came sprinkled with toasted pistachios. The Peanut Butter and Chocolate Cheesecake ($7) with Oreo crumbles, raspberry compote and chocolate drizzle was divine. Our experiences at both these vastly different establishments were superb. From the service with waitstaff who went above and beyond, to the perfectly prepared appetizers and well executed flavorful entrees, to the expertly crafted cocktails and the extensive wine lists, we chose well! NOLA being the more expensive choice and Irene's proving a longer wait, there are certainly options to be weighed when making a decision.  I will fondly remember these dinners in New Orleans not only for the outstanding food that lingers on my mind but also the fantastic company. The nights were still young, even we didn't know how young at the time. And so it goes...

Irene's Cuisine

529 Bienville St

New Orleans, LA 70130

NOLA

534 St Louis Street

New Orleans, LA 70116

updated November 2022: NOLA did not survive the pandemic and is now permanently closed.