Showing posts with label Bone Marrow. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bone Marrow. Show all posts

Monday, October 19, 2015

Portland | Oregon

We were in Portland for the first two nights and first full day of our Oregon trip. For me, a perfect weekend in the City of Roses ended up going a little something like this...
  We arrived from Boston on a Friday evening at 8:30 pm. After settling into our hotel we walked fifteen minutes to Little Bird Bistro, where I had not made a reservation but knew they served food until midnight. The hostess was able to seat us within 10 minutes. Our meal was wonderful. Their take on classic French cuisine is comforting and innovative.


What we ate + drank: Marrow Bones ($19) roasted garlic, char broiled squash, lentil hummus, toast /  Merci Merci ($10) Pampelaire, Aviation Gin, Aperol, Dolin Blanc /  Manhattan Noveau ($10) bourbon, Bordeaux wine, Benedictine / Fried Chicken "Coq au Vin" ($25) pommes raclette, bacon glazed mushrooms, rosemary-balsamic juice / Green Beans ($10) roasted cherries, foie gras vinaigrette.

Our Saturday morning began at Blue Star Donuts. I am still reminiscing, practically drooling over the flavors we had: passion fruit cocoa nib, blueberry basil bourbon (Bulleit!), hazelnut dulche de leche; and the ones I wish we did: marionberry jam with peanut butter powder, hard apple cider fritter. We washed down breakfast with a Stumptown cold brew coffee.
We seemed to have timed this visit perfectly as we arrived to the pristine kept, light filled space and waited in line no more than 5 minutes; but by the time we left the place was a mob scene!! And my #donut selfie? A must after laughing at their blackboard.
We leisurely perused Powell's City of Books and strolled around Pioneer Courthouse Square and the city center; the gorgeous weather adding to my affections. 

We debated taking an Uber to lunch, but I am always interested in a city's public transportation system, turns out Portland's is great. Between the bus lines and the max light rail the TriMet was a breeze.  We caught the #4 bus at Salmon and 5th which took us over the Hawthorne Bridge to SE Division and 32nd for lunch at Pok Pok. 

I read all about Portlander's braving two-hour waits, the famed spicy papaya salad and Vietnamese fish sauce wings and about Chef Andy Ricker opening outposts in NYC and LA.  I watched him chauffeuring Anthony Bourdain around Thailand on Parts Unknown. ALL THE HYPE.

I can't tell you if Pok Pok was worth the wait, because we didn't have one. (Afterwards, we walked out to a huge crowd on the street. We looked at each other all - are we really that good?! Missing all the lines?!) What I can tell you is that I loved it here at this Thailand street style inspired bungalow shack. If you are in Portland, you should go. 

What we ate + drank: Papaya Pok Pok ($9) central Thai style spicy green papaya salad with tomatoes, long beans, thai chili, lime juice, tamarind fish sauce, garlic, palm sugar, dried shrimp, peanuts / Sticky Rice ($3) / Heat Ray ($10) tequila, som celery drinking vinegar, fresh lime, Thai chili / Muu Paa Kham Waan ($15.50) boar collar meat rubbed with garlic, coriander root and black pepper, glazed with soy and sugar, grilled over charcoal, served with a spicy chili lime garlic sauce and cooling mustard greens. 

After Pok Pok we crossed the street to Salt & Straw. Again, lots of hype about this spot, and again, we somehow avoided the long line as a crowd showed up directly after us. That's three times now at popular spots!! The ice cream itself is something to write home about; perfectly smooth and creamy with creative flavors using local ingredients. I wasn't that into my Pear & Blue Cheese, though! The Bartlett pear was tooth achingly sweet and I hardly got any crumbles of the pungent blue cheese, which certainly would have added some balance. 
I was infatuated with Bob's pick of Freckled Woodblock Chocolate. Woodblock is the first bean-to-bar chocolate maker in Portland, roasting cocoa beans in a 19th century-old fire roaster. Then they add harvested Jacobson Sea Salt from the Oregon coast and use an old-school ice cream making technique called “freckling” to suspend the chocolate in an untempered state. The sea salt really made this flavor stand out. 
We walked with our ice cream in the warm sunshine about half way down SE Division Street, eventually deciding to hop back on the #4 bus a few stops. It was time to get our brewery crawl on! From small batch handcrafted beers that started as garage experiments at Baerlic, to the emerging style of barrel aged sours at Cascade, to European style brews with a focus on Northwest grown ingredients at Commons, these beers and their tasting rooms are so incredibly unique and thoughtful. Enjoy a photo montage of our afternoon, and look for a complete list at the bottom of this post.


I won't get into specifics of each and every beer we drank but I will mention our bar snacks at Hair of the Dog - which were excellent and much needed at this point in the day. We had Pork Toast ($5.25) with tender bits of pig, warmed on grilled bread and a Pickled Vegetable Sampler ($4.50). I had never had pickled broccoli or brussels sprouts and I loved them.

Around dusk we headed for the hotel which was a solid half hour walk. Our 9:15 pm dinner reservations allowed us time to meander back, relax and freshen up. We then hopped the TriMet to Irving Street Kitchen. The large rustic-urban space enveloping us in a warm glow, we settled on glasses of wine and main courses each. I am still thinking about this meal. Dreaming, lusting, swooning. It was fantastic.
What I ate: Beet & Ricotta Cavatelli ($19) / black truffle Stracchino, Ras El Hanout breadcrumb, roasted carrot

After dinner we wandered The Pearl District taking in the abundance of trendy bars and shops. We settled on watching football games at local haunt Life of Riley Tavern and closed out the evening at Deschutes Brewery. The next morning we cheered on marathon runners near the finish line. We had no idea there was a marathon going on until we arrived, so that was fun!

We also spent a half day and night in Portland on the back end, which worked out well for fitting in a couple of things we didn't have time for on the front. Since I mentioned a lot in this post, but omitted certain things too - below is a handy recap. A quintessential guide to Portland for beginners if you will: books, beers, donuts, roses. 



[My Portland top 5]

5) Northeast Alberta Arts District. Inevitably you will find yourself downtown and in The Pearl District. And hopefully in SE Portland. Northeast has a flare all its own. Funky graffiti artwork on walls and benches, hip coffee shops, art galleries and laid back bars. We got a cappuccino at Just Bob, walked around for a bit, then got cocktails at the trendy but low key hangout The Knock Back.  

4) Powell's City of Books / 1005 W Burnside St. You just don't see bookstores like this anymore. Powell's is inspiring. I could have spent all day perusing the shelves. 

3) The Rose Garden / 850 SW Rose Garden Way. Do your best to get here. We skipped it initially but I was so glad we went on our last day. Portland is the city of Roses, after all!

2) The Food. It can be extremely overwhelming with so many acclaimed restaurants from which to choose. I researched and debated a lot but in the end was really happy with our choices.

Lunch: Pok Pok / 3226 SE Division St
 Bunk Sandwiches / 211 SW 6th Ave  

Dinner: Little Bird Bistro / 215 SW 6TH Ave 
Irving Street Kitchen / 701 NW 13th Ave / Pearl District
Departure / 525 SW Morrison Street / Meier & Frank Building 15th floor

Sweets: Salt & Straw / 3345 SE Division Street
Blue Star Donuts / 3459 SE Hawthorne Blvd

1) A brewery crawl in Southeast Portland. There is an abundance of unique
breweries within walking distance in this residential meets industrial neighborhood. Tasting barrel aged sour beers on the sun drenched Cascade patio was a favorite trip moment. All of the breweries are listed in order of our crawl. Note: Deschutes is not in SE Portland but in the Pearl District. We fittingly ended our night here!

Baerlic Brewing / Hosford-Abernathy neighborhood / 2235 SE 11th Ave.

Cascade Barrel House / handcrafted sour beers / 939 SE Belmont St.

The Commons Brewery / traditional European beers w local ingredients / 630 SE Belmont St. 

Hair of the Dog / small batch bottle conditioned beers / 61 SE Yamhill St. 

Deschutes Brewery / award winning, distinctly Northwest craft beer / 210 NW 11th Ave.

Thank you for sticking with me on this adventure. I know these last couple posts have been much longer than usual. The Columbia River Gorge is up next! 

Thursday, October 15, 2015

Oregon Road Trip

From October 2nd through October 11th we road-tripped around Northwest Oregon; spending two nights each in Portland, Astoria, Newport and Dundee, plus a final night back in Portland before we flew out on Sunday morning. The Pacific Northwest is an incredible destination abounding with adventures. Portland is an unconventional yet hip city with a terrific food scene and microbreweries galore. The rugged Columbia River Gorge is an outdoor enthusiasts playground with breathtaking vistas, waterfalls and hikes. The Oregon Coast is strewn with stunning, sprawling beaches and lined with lush, emerald forests. The rolling hills of Dundee in the Willamette Valley offer picturesque vineyards, incredible wine, and outstanding wineries with pristine tasting rooms.
In the midst of all this is farmland. We were surprised by the amount of farms with hundreds of grazing cows and horses we passed through driving down Interstate 101. The geography of this state knows no bounds - especially when you take into consideration there is a barren desert landscape just further west of the Columbia River Valley than where we ventured.
The direct flights on Alaska Air were a breeze - worth noting that we decided on this trip because we had flight vouchers after being stranded in the Seattle Airport last March. We were pleasantly surprised with easy flights: on time take off, early arrivals, nice planes, friendly staff, and best of all a free case of checked wine each. From BOS to PDX - Alaska Air is a win. 


[Pictured]
International Rose Test Garden | "City of Roses"
sipping on a sour beer @ Cascade Barrel House | SE Portland
Baerlic Brewing Co tasting flight | SE Portland
bone marrow @ Little Bird Bistro | Downtown Portland 
Columbia River Gorge | Crown Point Vista - Scenic Byway
Astoria - Megler Bridge (connects OR to WA) | Astoria
Bob at Shipwreck Beach | Fort Stevens State Park 
Ecola State Park | Crescent Beach
with Haystack Rock | Cannon Beach
Mo's famous Clam Chowder | Newport Bayfront
Nye Beach dunes | Newport
starfish @ Cobble Beach | Yaquina Head
Pacific Ocean post swim | Nye Beach 
view from Winderlea Wine Co | Dundee Hills
Apple Dutch Baby for breakfast | La Bastide B&B
among the grape vines | Willamette Valley

Each morning after we arrived in a new city we'd head out for a run. I'm sure none were over three miles but it always felt good to start out exploring with exercise and no particular place to be. In Portland we looped through the Willamette Riverfront Parks, over pretty pedestrian friendly bridges and along the spacious downtown streets. In Astoria we made our way down the Columbia Riverfront, stopping at every pier along the way for views of the majestic Humpback Whales (!) who decided to grace the town with their presence that day. In Newport we ran on Nye Beach, the wide sandy flats making it easy, the strong winds not so much. We needed to work up a sweat anyways because we were determined to jump in the Pacific Ocean. (It was 54* water, but we did it!) In Dundee there were hills and farms; we ran by goats, horses and llamas, past crab tree orchards, autumn hued vines and thick, towering evergreens.

Over 7 days we drove about 11 hours which allowed plenty of time to spend relaxing and exploring. It worked out really well. All of our hotels were excellent - seamless stays with zero issues, I would happily recommend each one! Below are a few details, if you are interested. 
The starting point above is Hotel Modera in Portland. Upon checkout we took the TriMet to secure our rental car from the airport and drove east to see Multnomah Falls and hike Oneonta Gorge. Then, we drove over The Bridge of the Gods into Washington State and cruised west, crossing back into Oregon further north and over to Astoria. The little hook at the top was a detour back into Washington the next day to see Cape Disappointment. From Astoria it was due south on 101 to Newport, with a few stops along the way at Cannon Beach and Devil's Punchbowl. After Newport we backtracked north and cut over on Route 18 to the Willamette Valley and 99W took us into Dayton and Dundee. On our last day we stopped for lunch in McMinnville - a quaint college town just south of Dundee. The red ending point is Portland Airport.

[Hotels]
Portland | Hotel Modera | 515 Southwest Clay Street | modern boutique hotel with chic, eye pleasing décor. beautiful courtyard with a live wall and cozy firepits. convenient downtown location, steps from Gov Tom McCall Waterfront Park and Pioneer Courthouse Square. Easy access to public transportation - across from the TriMet and close to bus stops. *We booked through Tablet when they were having a 20% off sale*

Astoria | Cannary Pier Hotel | No. 10 Basin St | luxurious and unique. every room is positioned for absolutely stunning views of the Columbia River and the Astoria-Megler Bridge. The spacious rooms are well appointed to include a small waterfront balcony, a window seat, a fireplace and a clawfoot tub. They also provide in room binoculars and Pendleton wool blankets! Good continental breakfast. Wine and cheese happy hour.
 
Newport | Hallmark Resort | 744 SW Elizabeth St | oceanfront views and easy (stair) access to Nye Beach. There are a lot of hotels to choose from on the beach in Newport - I got a sense this one falls in the middle of the spectrum with standard appointed rooms. They had a lovely salt water pool, hot tub and sauna which we took advantage of after we swam in the frigid pacific! 
 
Dundee | LaBastide Bed & Breakfast | 21150 NE Niederberger Road | newly built home with modern furnishings. Cozy, quiet, friendly, family run B&B. Walkable to downtown bistros and tasting rooms. Convenient drive to Dundee Hills wineries. Amazing breakfasts!!
I hope you enjoyed the collective overview of our time in PNW Oregon. I look forward to sharing so much more about each of our four home base destinations and all the explorations in between!