Atelier Casa de Comidas | Granada

Oyster with kiwi, jalapeno + samphire

PATATAS BRAVAS

Oxtail stuffed croissant with Béarnaise Sauce

Stewed red tuna cheek from Almadraba, smoked aubergines tahini, 

graprefruit + cold-macerated onion soup. 

Atelier Casa de Comidas - Michelin Star lunch in a calm, contemporary space with perfect service. Andalusian flavors using modern techniques, food that surprises + excites you.

Atelier Casa de Comidas

C. Sos del Rey Católico, nº7

18006 Granada, Spain

(interior photo source)

Hungry in Bali | Seminyak Dining

I purchased this fantastic book in advance of our trip called Hungry in Bali from The Asia Collective. This ultimate culinary island guide comes with a personal discount code; it became our trusted source for restaurant recommendations in not only Seminyak but Ubud and Bukit as well. Our little culinary bible! Dining out in Bali is inexpensive to begin with so the discounts are a fun perk of purchasing the guide. If you are going to Bali use my discount code stillhungry10 for 10% off your own copy.

In Ubud we used the book at what ended up being three of my favorite spots: Hujan Locale, Copper Kitchen + Bar and Folk Cafe Pool + Garden. In Bukit we used it for free access to Sunday's Beach Club ($25 per person) plus 10% off our total bill. 

In Seminyak we used it when dining at: Merah Putih, Tiger Palm and Kilo Kitchen. For drinks at: Motel Mexicola and Moonlight. And in Canggu at Strawberry Fields. Each of these dining experiences were so special to me, truly memorable nights out with my fiancé over inspired and impressive cuisine.

Merah Putih serves traditional and modern Indonesian in a mesmerizing space, where rainwater is captured in translucent roof columns and filtered into indoor rivers. The dining room is exquisite, sultry and romantic. The creative plates designed for sharing showcase a range of technique, spices and flavors. We had A LOT of food here and it was totally worth it to sample so many dishes. 

Bamboo Lobster Dumplings - shellfish bisque, tomato + kaffir lime 

Rujak Udang - tiger prawns with green papaya + banana blossom 

Chargrilled Lombok Octopus - watermelon radish, cauliflower, fern tip + sambal bajak*

Tongkol Gohu - manado yellowfin tuna, lemongrass + cassava

Buntut Makassar - chargrilled oxtail with soy, peanuts + leeks in kluwek* broth

Nasi Uduk - coconut + lemongrass pandan* steamed rice 

Coklat - chocolate bibka amon, mousse + banana ice cream 

Kelapa - young coconut panna cotta, hibiscus + pandan* granita

{The Hungry in Bali deal was a complimentary dessert per person}

Our first meal in Seminyak was a home run, Merah Putih is a beautiful, unique and delicious experience.

Post Dinner Drinks @ Motel Mexicola

A taqueria by day and one of the best parties in Seminyak by night; we showed up to a tequila infused crowd dancing on all the tables. I borrowed their website photos above to showcase the colorful, upbeat, retro Acapulco vibe - the interior is ridiculously awesome. 

{The Hungry in Bali Deal at Motel Mexicola is a complimentary taco per person} 

On our second evening out in Seminyak we enjoyed dishes inspired by Southeast Asian street food at Tiger Palm. The chefs inspiration plus high quality ingredients transcends to fragrant, spicy, rich and comforting dishes. 

Chinese Stuffed Prawn Wonton - homemade mayonnaise + chili salt 

Oxtail + Wild Mushroom Arancini - shredded slow cooked oxtail with basmati rice, chili, turmeric, mozzarella + parmesan 

Black Cod Teriyaki - char grilled with a radish, edamame, sweet corn + cherry tomato succotash 

Caramelized Duck Leg (probably my favorite entrée this trip!) - coriander, ginger, cinnamon, star anise, tea smoked egg, spring onion + lime dressing

{The Hungry in Bali deal was 10% off our total bill}

Post Dinner Drinks @ Moonlight 

A contemporary Asian rooftop space overlooking Double Six Beach where we sipped espresso martinis late into the evening. 

{The Hungry in Bali deal was 20% off our total bill}

On our third night we switched it up and ventured slightly north to soak in the boho vibes in Canggu at Strawberry Fields. This laid back jungle-canopy oasis lit by chandeliers and playing old school hip hop specializes in Australian breakfasts and gourmet burgers. I had the Royale with Cheese and Bob had a Big Mac alongside well made cocktails. 

[Pool table photo credit]

{The Hungry in Bali deal was 2 for 1 - buy one main dish to receive one complimentary}

Post Dinner Drinks this evening were @ Char Char

Char Char in Seminyak Square is one of those places you spot and can't help but want to be a part of the scene. Their front wall features a set of steps creating a tired terrace that overlooks the buzzing street front. (Blurry photo taken from a moving taxi...)

Travel Tip: Speaking of taxis, Seminyak was the first place we encountered where taxi drivers tried to rip us off. (Our first encounter entirely with anyone being rude in Bali!!) Always ask them to run the meter. If they refuse just find another cab as they are required by law to run them. There is no way a taxi ride across town should cost almost as much as a car to get to the airport. 

Kilo Bali was the encore meal in a string of hits, proving Seminyak's food scene absolutely kills it. The sleek and hard angled concrete space with slanted floor to ceiling windows feels ultra modern. Leafy green potted plants and woven rugs add a touch of cozy to the otherwise minimalist vibe. They serve soul nourishing Asian-Western fusion cuisine.

Sake Sangria - Kiki-Masamune Sake, ginger, orange, mint

Crispy Soft Shell Crab - compressed watermelon, Thai red curry gravy

Black + White Prawn Ravioli - sake butter sauce, rocket, parmesan

Slow Cooked Beef Cheeks - mashed potato, shimeji*, hot and sweet thai glaze, kemangi*

Coconut Tembleque - chocolate cinnamon, pineapple, oat crumbs

{The Hungry in Bali deal was 15% off our total bill}

Post Dinner Drinks @ Moet + Chandon Champagne Bar

Back in the hustle and bustle of Seminyak Square this rowdy bar was the perfect spot to celebrate on our final evening of the trip. This entire adventure has truly been an eye opening travel experience, not to mention engagement-moon bliss!

Travel is meaningful - not only because almost every trip you take will move you outside your comfort zone, but also because every interaction is a chance to contribute a mutual understanding between people. The power of hospitality allows citizens to find common ground and to discover the beauty that lies across borders. (source)

*sambal bajak = multi chili relish

*kluwek = nut from the Pangium, a tall native mangrove tree

*pandan = herbaceous fragrant tropical plant

shimeji = mushrooms native to east Asia

*kemangi = lemon basil

u b u d | p 2

Night 1 - We've Arrived! After we settled in at Gora Bali Villa we strolled over to Copper Kitchen + Bar and had an excellent dinner on their beautiful, contemporary rooftop. We shared a crispy scallion pancake with shredded chicken, bonito flakes, spicy peanut sauce + a chili plum sauce. I had an entrée of seared Barramundi Fish in a fennel broth with smoked eggplant and soy mirin caramel topped with a crab dumpling! For dessert a black rice + coconut pudding with caramelized banana + puffed rice. We had only been in Ubud a few hours and already I was charmed. It was nice to start of with such a unique meal featuring very inventive dishes.





Day 1 - We found a really nice driver named Made, (mad-e - long e) he took us to a Luwak Coffee Plantation + Tegallalang Rice Terrace. I previously proclaimed my deep connection with the rice paddies. As far as the Luwak Coffee is concerned I had read about this specialty blend and was excited we got to taste it alongside a super sampler of other flavored coffee (coconut, chocolate!) and tea (saffron, rose, ginger, ginseng, tamarind!) plus a quick and informative tour. 

It is a fascinating story. The Luwak is actually a jungle cat who POOPS OUT THE COFFEE BEANS. Historically the lower working class population did not have access to the coffee beans that they harvested for the royals but they discovered them in the poop! The entire process of breaking down this revitalized bean makes the coffee richer, even better tasting, so it was adapted by all. Crazy, right?

We had lunch in downtown Ubud @ Gedang Sisi Warung where I had my first of many Nasi Goreng! Nasi Goreng is Indonesian Fried rice, always served with a fried egg on top and chicken satay on the side. It is addictingly good. We had a romantic and probably one of my favorite dinners @ Hujan Locale noshing on crispy squid with ginger flower and a lemongrass + chili jam, plus oxtail dumplings in a spicy chili broth, and passionfruit panna cotta.


Day 2 - We ventured around Ubud on foot. We walked the scenic Campuan Ridge Walk that morning, visited the Monkey Forest that afternoon, then hung out at Folk Pool + Gardens for a late lunch + swimming. We had relaxing evening pedicures @ Lily Spa on JL Bisma and a disappointing dinner @ Nusantara.

The Monkey Forest is a must do! There are literally monkeys everywhere, all shapes and sizes, more monkeys than you've ever seen in one place in your life. And the forest itself is a gorgeous sweeping canopy of lush trees and old vines.

We were cautious around them. Hence the awkward "hey look I'm standing a foot away from you!" photos. They typically won't jump on you unless you offer food. I'm not scared of them per se but we were warned prior to of diseases if they scratch or bite and of them stealing from you! One jumped on me and he really didn't look nice at all!! This woman on the other hand was all about checking it off her bucket list. Pretty sure the largest monkey in the forest made himself right at home. He was super sweet and playful with her. We thoroughly enjoyed our time on the Campuan Ridge. I would say it is another must do for the beautiful views and it only takes a couple of hours. There are a few warungs along the way to escape the heat or if you wanted to plan your walk around a meal.

Folk Cafe Pool + Gardens is located on JL Monkey Forest so it was a perfect choice for lunch and some bevies at the sunken pool bar. Pictured are a Crispy Chicken Curry sandwich on brioche, a vodka pineapple martini, daybeds for rent, and me enjoying some qt on a watermelon float.

We debated over a few spots for dinner and I wish we went somewhere else. Nusantara is an authentic Indonesian restaurant that gets pretty fantastic reviews. It is a sister restaurant to highly awarded Locavore, so it seems to be the case if you can't get a table at Locavore you go here. While some of the flavors were well done, most of the dishes were off. The meats were overcooked. All that we tasted were either chewy or dry and whatever was on that appetizer plate was terribly strange.

I so wanted to like Nusantara. The atmosphere and the staff were lovely but I could not quite grasp the authenticity of this food. We ate a lot of Indonesian food on this trip that I loved so I was confused by the disconnect!

Day 3 - We hooked up with our driver Made again. He took us to three magical and inspiring Temples: Tirtah Empul, Gunug Kawi + Goa Gajah + then the breathtaking Tegenungan Waterfall.

Tirtah Empul means "holy water spring". It is an important Hindu Balinese temple that houses a mountain spring which feeds purification baths and koi ponds.
Bob was very happy about the Koi Fish at Tirta Empul with so many beautiful Koi to view. Also, how great does he look in a Sarong? I wore a long skirt out of respect and while they still required me to wear a Sarong at Tirta Empul, they did not at the latter two. Below is at Goa Gajah which means "Elephant Cave".

 

Gunung Kawi is an ancient rock temple + funerary complex situated at the bottom of a lush green river valley. The massive shrine reliefs are carved into the face of rock cliffs on each side of the Pakerisan River. There is also a sacred Hindu temple courtyard that you can enter only in bare feet. I was so in awe here, this was definitely my favorite of the three temples.

My pictures at Tegenungan are all from afar but we walked down to explore the area and went swimming. (You can get pretty close to the falls, directly under it is roped off for safety.) Bob and I concurred "this is like an Iceland level waterfall but you can actually swim!" 

Considering this wasn't even on my radar, I was thrilled Made took us here. There are a few warungs perched on the cliff with gorgeous views so we relaxed with a couple Bintangs + Coconuts before heading back to Ubud. 

Night 3 - That evening we planned for an early dinner. We had good Indonesian cuisine at a cozy warung on Jalan Bisma. We shared chicken curry and crispy duck with rice and dumplings. Then it was off to The Moksha Ubud for sunset massages which included body scrubs + a flower petal bath. To our amazement we were lead to an open air massage villa out on the rice paddy. I have had a lot of massages and even a body scrub before but I have never experienced this level of spa bliss. It was two hours long and the setting was unparalleled.

Day 4 - Transfer @ 7 am to Padangbai Harbor where we took the fast boat to Lombok. I researched a ton of fast boats but then our hotel on Lombok highly recommend Mahi Mahi Dewata and we would concur with a great experience. 

When you arrive off the comfy and air conditioned transfer shuttle they are quick to get you situated. Your ticket comes in the form of a necklace - I thought that was genius! The loading docks are chaotic and having your hands free to deal with bags and to jump on a boat with no loading platform was so key. And since the boat stops at multiple islands you get a color coded sticker with your destination. 

I had jumped on the boat first while Bob remained in line. The flip flop foot, not to mention laundry basket of supplies (Pringles!) accurately depicts how you board the boat. 
It was actually a very relaxing ride. The swells of the Lombok Strait plus a James Taylor playlist lulled us right to sleep.

Once we docked in Senggigi Harbor we had to wait awhile for our transfer to Puri Mas Resort. We were welcomed with fun pineapple cocktails at check-in. 

Ubud Travel Tips: As I've alluded to besides our accommodations and major transfers we did not book anything in advance of arriving. A lot of tours marketed online in USD are majorly overpriced. It is super convenient to find a driver working for a local legitimate company; there are stalls along most main streets in Ubud. Made (and other drivers throughout our locations) always offered up their availability for whatever we needed during our stay along with new suggestions for where to visit. I found everyone to be incredibly patient, punctual, reliable, and they could easily customize any kind of itinerary you wanted for the day on a whim! 

The airport transfers were booked through our Airbnb hosts a week or two ahead of time. When we arrived (both from the US and then again from Lombok) our drivers were waiting among hundreds of others. The first driver stood holding a sign that said only my first name in orange bubble letters, the second actually had my last name! We found them both very easily. If your host tells you they will send a driver but you have no info on the driver or the company, not to worry. Just trust them, your driver will be there! 

Essentially, I was so impressed with how easy everything was, how well everything flowed and how hospitable and knowledgeable the locals are. I always felt like we were in good hands. The Balinese are truly the best.