Chilmark Tavern

During our stay up Island on Martha's Vineyard we had an exceptional dinner at the Chilmark Tavern. This BYOB bistro is rustic yet refined and serves whimsical dishes with local seafood and ingredients from neighboring farms. We started the night with cocktails from a little canteen of vodka that I'm so glad we brought along! I had their Shrub ($8) which combined the vodka with fruit based drinking vinegar and seltzer. Bob went with a classic vodka martini ($5). Then, they uncorked ($14) our bottle of Winderlea Pinot Noir Rosé with dinner.

Here's a look at what we ate:

‘caesar’ ($16) baby kale, mixed chicories, grape tomato, bottarga, crunchy croutons

edgartown razor clams ($19) steamed + chilled, finger lime, 

tobiko, salmon roe, avocado crema, grapefruit oil, sea beans 



bluefish ($37) smoked + pan seared, braised fennel, celery, 
onion soubise, citrus, pickled currants, lemon thyme oil

island fluke ($39) razor clam + green garlic broth, fingerling potatoes, 

island grown summer squash, ramp butter

Upon receiving the check, we remarked how expensive the meal was considering the BYOB factor. It was not until writing this post I realized how pricey each dish truly was. I guess this is to be expected in a more remote island locale. The food was impressive so if you're looking to splurge it's worth it.

Next up we head down Island to Oak Bluffs for a few days - more MV recommends to come!

Chilmark Tavern

9 State Road

Chilmark, MA 02535

Supper @ St. John Hotel

When I was Christmas shopping the weekend before I jetted off to London I came across a tiny paperback book in Anthropologie titled The Traditional Shops and Restaurants of London: A Guide to Century Old Establishments and New Classics. Its charming vintage cover and beautifully composed photographs drew me in. Well written and informative, author Eugina Bell waxes poetic about purveyors of specialty goods - from booksellers and coffee roasters, umbrella makers and hatters, to butchers, tea merchants and more. Of the few restaurants, one named St. John located in the meatpacking district stood out in my mind for its nose-to-tail concept and this excerpt: 

A favorite -- marrow and parsley salad -- is always on the menu, a dish that Anthony Bourdain calls, rather bluntly, his "death row meal." 

Well then! When Tricia and I were soliciting advice the previous day from our helpful concierge he offered to make us a reservation for Saturday night. As it turned out, they were completely booked. However, they also have a location at the St. John Hotel which had opened this past spring in Leicester Square and he was able to secure us a table.This worked to our advantage as Leicester Square was within walking distance of our hotel, easily much closer than the original location. We arrived around 7:50 for our 8 pm reservation to a perplexed duo of hosts. They had our reservation but seemed genuinely taken aback by how "early" we were (did they just laugh at us?!) It was odd. Tricia and I exchanged glances, and at once their faces softened and they offered us seats at the bar upstairs. Fine by us! We settled into plush rust-colored leather couches among starch white walls and glossy blue floors.At the bar I ordered an expertly crafted Sazerac (£11) , it warmed the lingering chill right out of me. Tricia got a French Pearl (£9) which was served in a fun dainty glass. In exactly 10 minutes ;) our table was ready and we were ushered down the narrow winding stairwell, still with that striking laminated blue floor underfoot. It added to the nautical cruise ship theme, subtly stated by porthole windows on every hotel room door. The small dining room did not have much of a theme at all. Lacking décor, it was simple and understated with rustic wood floors and chairs to match, backed by a gleaming stainless steel open kitchen. The bright space with tables set in uniform close proximity grew increasingly more crowded and noisy as the night wore on. St. John felt trendy because it didn't try too hard, and the full house only affirmed its popularity. We were greeted by a jovial waiter, waters were filled promptly and a basket of addicting sourdough bread with a pat of creamy butter was delivered. We got to studying the menu - which by the way - did not have the aforementioned always on the menu Anthony Bourdain death row marrow and parsley salad. So, perhaps it only stands at the original location. What the menu did have was Devilled Pig Skin (£3.50) and our curiosity combined with a compelling description by our waitress (in London, it is not uncommon to have two servers - we noticed this consistently at every restaurant) prompted our order. These were highly unappetizing. Certain pieces were extremely salty and abrasively crisp, while others were ridiculously tough. I wish I understood the chefs intentions here. Should they have been light, airy, pop able - like a chip? I tried quite a few pieces, debating over them each time. At least our curiosity was appeased and we patted ourselves on the back for being adventurous.

We shared a starter of Razor Clams, White Beans & Artichoke (£9.20). The razor clams were prepared a la plancha, slightly browned and delectably chewy, the artichoke soft and tender and the white beans in abundance nicely rounded out the dish. Everything bathed in a warm pool of lemony olive oil infused with fresh green herbs, notably dill and parsley.

Each component was well executed, the dish as a whole offered appeasing textures and bright flavors.
We finished our cocktails and ordered a glass of each of the St John Rouge (£5). I learned after perusing the website that the company does in fact make their own wine. We were given a decent pour of a juicy and full bodied wine, it paired well with the food. Two mains (in England they are not called entrees) really spoke to both of us, so we decided to share. Tricia started with the Brill, Salt Lemon & Hazelnut (£18.60). Brill is a a flatfish native to waters of the North Atlantic through the Baltic and Mediterranean Seas. And as you might gather, it is commonly found in Great Britain.The flaky white fish benefited from a simple preparation in butter, herbs, salt and lemon. And we both agreed that the toasted hazelnuts and I think there were some golden raisins as well piled on there, were a thoughtful and delicious addition to the plate. The major detriment lied in the fact that the brill was not deboned. While this might have lent additional flavors, it proved to be a major hassle for us. No one wants to be picking bones out of their fish during a nice meal, never mind out of your mouth mid chew. And there were a lot of tiny bones within that hearty piece. The Pot Roast Short Rib, Celeriac & Pickled Walnut (£22.50) was the favored main by default. Guinness braised and fall of the bone tender, it was supremely hearty set in a bowl of smooth whipped celeriac which mingled with its delicious braising juices and thick melted butter to create something special. The pickled walnut was incredibly innovative, I have never had anything quite like them. With a pronounced acidity they added depth and contrast to the richness of the short rib. Only three of them topped the substantial serving and I wished there were more.Dessert was just plain awesome. Apple Sorbet and...wait for it...Russian Vodka (£7). Pour the shot over the sorbet and you get a potent and refreshing digestif and dessert in one. We were big fans.Our meal came to (£102.15) with the service charge of (£11.35) included. Converted to dollars, that is $80 each, which is no walk in the park. London is definitely an expensive city all around, on top of that the dollar to pound conversion is the absolute worst. Put it this way, that Sazerac alone cost me $17! Overall, we enjoyed our supper of modern British cuisine at St John Hotel, even though elements of certain dishes left a little something to be desired. The portions are substantial and the food itself is rich and hearty. Come hungry.

St John Hotel

1 Leicester Street

London WC2

Barcelona Cuisine | Comerç 24

One of the most memorable meals during our trip to Spain was at Barcelona's eloquent and cosmopolitan Comerç 24. Distinguished by a coveted Michelin Star, Chef/owner Carles Abellan's cuisine is described as having roots but knowing no borders. He began his career under the prestigious Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame, where he trained and spent seven subsequent years on the team before managing successive ventures of Adria's. Eventually returning to downtown Barcelona to open restaurants of his own, Abellan is renowned as one of the most innovative chefs of nouvelle Catalan cuisine.His flagship eatery features inspired luxury tapas created using avant-garde techniques. The interior spaces is sophisticated and refined, with a soothing ambiance of neutral gray tones highlighted by warm red and yellow decor. While I had Comerç 24 on my radar prior to departing for Spain we didn't have set plans to visit. Most reviews would advise against showing up without a reservation, but early on a weekday night, we decided to take our chances.

We ventured on foot to the hip neighborhood of El Born, past the majestic Arc de Triomf located in the Parc de la Cituadella. We were the among the first to arrive at 8:30 pm and were seated at the bar. Adjacent to us was the brightly lit open kitchen; its yellow walls glowing from the inside out. The vacant seats on either side were soon filled by couples on vacation who clearly had the same idea as us, right down to their DSLRs photographing the the meal. Conversation among us ensued, wouldn't you know I felt right at home.

Besides the company adding to the convivial experience, the entire staff was superb throughout. Professional and composed service was met with warm hospitality, they simply did not miss a beat. After settling in with aperitifs, a glass of Cava for her, "White Label" on the rocks for him, a server presented three artisanal loaves of bread arranged on a large cutting board and kindly instructed us to choose one.

Sliced behind the scenes and served accompanied by a wooden crate of four distinct and delicious Spanish olive oils, this well executed gesture began the meal on an impressive note.

We decided to order our tapas a la carte as opposed to the set 7 course tasting menu, which was 84€. Our meal more than likely ended up the same price in the end, however, there were certain items that spoke to us, and we ordered with our instincts. The kitchen took care to split certain dishes into individual portions as they saw fit.

The meal commenced with a trio of amuse bouche style tapas. We sipped a Cold Cauliflower Soup with smoked tea and nori, followed up with two bites each of Pickled Cauliflower Florets with ginger and rice vinegarNext we savored the Phyllo Cigars which were filled with Parmesan mousse and accented with essence of lemon and basil. The presentation of the starter tapas on natural rocks was utterly charming, as were the slate slabs on the courses that followed. The Pizza 24 was yet another prelude, juicy tomatoes and sweet strawberries met over creamy burrata on a thin crispy flatbread topped with heaps of fresh basil.

Our a la carte adventure began with the Tuna Sashimi Pizza. Thick cubes of deep ruby red Toro in a wasabi vinaigrette are composed domino style over a wafer thin crust lined with strips of seaweed. An innovative presentation lends itself to well composed bites, while the preparation allows these flawless pieces of tuna shine, as sashimi this gorgeous absolutely should. A Japanese influence was prevalent in quite a few of the plates we ordered, this fusion proved a welcome concept.I was really looking forward to the Razor Clam Yakisoba and this radiant bowl of "noodles" did not disappoint. Toothsome strands of the mollusks typically favored in Spanish cuisine are lightly dressed in an Asian inspired sauce; accompanied by intensely bright and juicy mandarin oranges.

The soft citrus fruit has been prepared a la plancha, so the wedges became slightly caramelized. A black firecracker of julienned nori strips give this delectable tapas an element of flair.

Another impeccable sashimi style offering was the Monkfish; carefully sliced to a pristine thinness, the translucent white flesh is in gorgeous contrast with the black garlic ink and festive confetti of black sesame. The black garlic adds a wonderful umami flavored complexity and is especially unique in this sticky paste form. Initially mild, the flavors build to a rich savory finish, flattering the subtle sweetness of the Monkfish. This dish was truly something brilliant.

The Braised Oxtail is in stark contrast to the former dishes, this tender cut of meat is warm, juicy and comforting. The heightened meaty flavor, rich and mouth filling was complimented with a clever preparation of remarkably soft and light turnips. A paper thin radish square a top the beef adds a slight hint of tanginess.

With our meal we enjoyed a bottle of Juan Bautista Campo de Borja Yonna, a tempranillo grenacha blend from the region of Aragon. This was a rustic Spanish wine boasting tart cherry on the nose, with pronounced oak flavors and a soft finish.

When it came to dessert, we opted this time for the tasting menu (18€)! A gastronomic parade of magical sweet treats began with a Lemon Ice Tea.

Tart lemon ice cream is scooped over a buttery sable cookie bathing with pineapple chunks in sweet pineapple juices.

The Cherry Tonka presented a smooth scoop of cherry ice cream and a hollowed cherry halve with a golden gelee cube that I can't quite place, and a tonka bean custard. Tonka is reminiscent of vanilla, with a slightly more exotic allure. (Apparently quite the controversial legume, its use in food is banned in the United States by the FDA. Google it!)

In a charming glass jar came Recuit Napolita with strawberry, basil and a foamy custard that was sweet and creamy in one bite, tangy and reminiscent of Greek yogurt in the next. While strawberry and basil are a not an unusual ingredient pairing, this jar of whimsy managed to offer surprises with every bite.

The Caramel Apple Saffron was decidedly fascinating. Over a bed of equally soft yet crispy caramel chocolate crumbles sat an inventive apple saffron ice cream drizzled in a luscious caramel sauce. This was my favorite of the dessert tapas so far, until the grand finale Conguitos ç24 swept in and stole my affections. Over a hazelnut brownie draped with more caramel sat these mystical chocolate bombshells dusted generously in cocoa powder. What would appear to be a dense truffle was in fact a thin shell containing ice cream. It was a nutty praline cream that was all too astonishingly cold and firm. This bite, was bliss. A slate of Petit Fours showed up, of course! These playful gems from left to right are: gold fondant chocolate bars, green tea white chocolate slivers, chocolate covered pine nuts and vanilla panna cotta oreos.A splurge worthy destination, should you choose to dine at Comerç 24, a procession of creative, luxurious, globally inspired tapas awaits!

Comerç 24

C/ Comerç 24

08003 Barcelona

edited to note: Comerc 24 closed in 2015 :(