Showing posts with label Monkfish. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Monkfish. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 20, 2016

Waypoint




Chef Michael Scelfo has done it again. Get yourself to his new restaurant Waypoint and without a doubt order the Uni Bucatini and the King Crab. There are some dishes that manage to get an entire city buzzing, and these are two of them

In an unassuming, sort of hidden subterranean industrial space on Mass Ave between Harvard and Central squares, Waypoint lures fans of Alden + Harlow with contemporary seafood focused plates and an absinthe centric bar menu. There's so much more than two of us could try in one visit - like crudo and caviar and clam pizza. It is an experience much like the Choose Your Own Adventure Books that the checks come delivered in; no matter which way the menu inspires you to tailor your order, you won't be disappointed

The interior is warmly lit by a distinctive neon green fish sign and a parade of hand blown glass lamps. Large and small booths tuck perfectly into cozy spaces, while communal high tops front the area between the bar and the open kitchen. Creamy marble table tops and gorgeous herringbone inlaid walls catch my eye. It is a space that is both buzzing and soothing all at once.

As far as the aforementioned dishes go - the intensely comforting Uni Bucatini ($18) offers thrilling heaps of sweet uni, a runny smoked egg yolk, pecorino crumbles and bottarga shavings among hollow strands of the al dente pasta. Plump and fresh King Crab ($22) is piled atop a heavenly chili garlic oil, a creamy brown butter aoili and toasty black rice; lending playful, contrasting textures and harmonizing flavors

Meanwhile, our other two dishes are not to be overlooked: Grilled Monkfish Cheeks with squid inked eggplant and kohlrabi salsa verde, along with a Squid Ink Gemelli ($17) featuring benton's ham, swordfish lardo, smoked pignola + pecorino crumble prove all of Waypoint's alluring coastal cuisine dishes shine. 

Being on a mezcal kick I passed up the tales of absinthe section and went with a house original called Portside ($12) with mezcal, manzanilla sherry, pickled cherry pepper, honey + lime. It was smokey yet balanced with a little fiery kick. Later on, a really funky, seafood-friendly wine appropriate for fans of sour beer, the Denavolo "Dinavolino" ($15) from Emilia-Romagna, Italy is a delicious, unexpected discovery. 

Waypoint
1030 Massachusetts Avenue
Cambridge, MA 02138

Tuesday, September 6, 2016

Little Donkey


We kicked off a rare summer Friday in the city with a friends 30th birthday bar crawl at Charlie's Kitchen and bowed out after a few beers because - Little Donkey. Chefs Ken Oringer + Jamie Bissonete (Toro + Coppa) are my favorite! The fact that they are doing something entirely different here has been highly anticipated and so.much.fun. My only gripe was the uni; there was barely a bite each in that spiny black shell. I expected luscious, overflowing, bight orange sea urchin and was definitely disappointed. For me, it doesn't warrant spending $18. Everything else is fair game. The best dish that we ate was the Wok Fried Chow Fun. Runner up was the Monkfish Biryani. The Cucumber Feta Salad was a surprise from the kitchen - so nice of them to send that out!

Oysters ($3/each) Crowes Pasture (Dennis, MA) + Kusshi (British Columbia, CAN)
Live Santa Barbara Uni ($18) dashi, yuzu, chicharron
Black Pepper Popovers ($14) Wagyu Steak Tartare
Charred Avocado ($5) Pepitas, yogurt, pomegranate molasses
Cucumber Salad ($9) feta, buttermilk, spicy peppers
Wok Fried Chow Fun ($15) soft shell crab, rice noodles, mushrooms, escargot, 
Calabrian chili, black beans, green curry. 
Monkfish Biryani ($16) basmati rice, saffron cashews, cardamom
Octopus a la Plancha ($16) (unpictured) charred onion vinaigrette, potato tostones 
Matcha Pofiterols ($9) hot fudge, Pocky sticks

505 Massachusetts Avenue
Cambridge, MA 02139 

Wednesday, May 4, 2016

Lord Jeffrey Inn | Amherst



Majestically nestled on the maple-lined Amherst Common and the campus of Amherst College, the Lord Jeffery Inn and their handsome restaurant and bar 30Boltwood warmly welcome guests to the heart of New England. The landscape embraces springtime with well manicured hedges, a crisp green lawn and cheerful gardens of bright yellow daffodils and vivid fuchsia and orange tulips. Original architecture and classic style offer historic charms while featuring modern amenities in 49 stylish guest rooms. This is the place to stay and/or dine if you're visiting the area. 

After we spent the day biking in the neighboring towns of Northampton and Easthampton along the Norwattuck and Manhan Branches of the Western Massachusetts Rail Trail, I was absolutely beat. It took all my energy to shower up for dinner, and I was so grateful we only had to venture downstairs to reach 30Boltwood. We were seated in a cozy brown leather booth with a copper top table lending an exclusive feel; sinking into that tall circular booth it felt like we had the place to ourselves! We were greeted by a jovial and engaging waiter who informed us that all wines by the bottle are $35 each. And with an extensive, expertly labeled list - whites are broken down as either: crisp, aromatic, full-bodied or bubbles, and reds: earthy, rustic or powerful - this proves an incredible deal. 

We enjoyed a Cabernet / Merlot blend from South Africa, Ken Forrester "Petit", alongside Maplebrook Farms Burrata ($12) with smoked red pepper and preserved lemon. The Pan Roasted Duck Breast ($35) was accompanied by a foie gras torchon, polenta, wild mushrooms and swiss chard. A flawlessly prepared al dente House Tagliatelle ($26) arrives with smoked pork shoulder, goat cheese and roasted tomatoesA bonus round included a sample of the Monkfish over English pea puree, pickled rhubarb, spinach greens and radish. Dessert offered a creative Espresso Crème Brulee Tart ($12) with bourbon whipped cream and pistachio plus a scoop of Sweet Corn and Blueberry ice creams. 

Locally sourced ingredients prepared simply but with attention to detail coupled with intimate dining booths and inexpensive bottles of good wine, 30Boltwood served to impress. Retreating upstairs and sinking my tired and sore limbs into Lord Jeffrey's comfy pillow top mattress and high thread count linens rounded out a perfect Amherst getaway. 

Lord Jeffrey Inn + 30Boltwood
30 Boltwood Avenue
Amherst, Massachusetts, 01002 

*Our stay and our meal were provided thanks to Hampshire County Regional Tourism + Massachusetts Office of Travel + Tourism.

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Barcelona Cuisine | Comerç 24

One of the most memorable meals during our trip to Spain was at Barcelona's eloquent and cosmopolitan Comerç 24. Distinguished by a coveted Michelin Star, Chef/owner Carles Abellan's cuisine is described as having roots but knowing no borders. He began his career under the prestigious Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame, where he trained and spent seven subsequent years on the team before managing successive ventures of Adria's. Eventually returning to downtown Barcelona to open restaurants of his own, Abellan is renowned as one of the most innovative chefs of nouvelle Catalan cuisine.His flagship eatery features inspired luxury tapas created using avant-garde techniques. The interior spaces is sophisticated and refined, with a soothing ambiance of neutral gray tones highlighted by warm red and yellow decor. While I had Comerç 24 on my radar prior to departing for Spain we didn't have set plans to visit. Most reviews would advise against showing up without a reservation, but early on a weekday night, we decided to take our chances.
We ventured on foot to the hip neighborhood of El Born, past the majestic Arc de Triomf located in the Parc de la Cituadella. We were the among the first to arrive at 8:30 pm and were seated at the bar. Adjacent to us was the brightly lit open kitchen; its yellow walls glowing from the inside out. The vacant seats on either side were soon filled by couples on vacation who clearly had the same idea as us, right down to their DSLRs photographing the the meal. Conversation among us ensued, wouldn't you know I felt right at home.
Besides the company adding to the convivial experience, the entire staff was superb throughout. Professional and composed service was met with warm hospitality, they simply did not miss a beat. After settling in with aperitifs, a glass of Cava for her, "White Label" on the rocks for him, a server presented three artisanal loaves of bread arranged on a large cutting board and kindly instructed us to choose one.
Sliced behind the scenes and served accompanied by a wooden crate of four distinct and delicious Spanish olive oils, this well executed gesture began the meal on an impressive note.
We decided to order our tapas a la carte as opposed to the set 7 course tasting menu, which was 84€. Our meal more than likely ended up the same price in the end, however, there were certain items that spoke to us, and we ordered with our instincts. The kitchen took care to split certain dishes into individual portions as they saw fit.
The meal commenced with a trio of amuse bouche style tapas. We sipped a Cold Cauliflower Soup with smoked tea and nori, followed up with two bites each of Pickled Cauliflower Florets with ginger and rice vinegarNext we savored the Phyllo Cigars which were filled with Parmesan mousse and accented with essence of lemon and basil. The presentation of the starter tapas on natural rocks was utterly charming, as were the slate slabs on the courses that followed. The Pizza 24 was yet another prelude, juicy tomatoes and sweet strawberries met over creamy burrata on a thin crispy flatbread topped with heaps of fresh basil.
Our a la carte adventure began with the Tuna Sashimi Pizza. Thick cubes of deep ruby red Toro in a wasabi vinaigrette are composed domino style over a wafer thin crust lined with strips of seaweed. An innovative presentation lends itself to well composed bites, while the preparation allows these flawless pieces of tuna shine, as sashimi this gorgeous absolutely should. A Japanese influence was prevalent in quite a few of the plates we ordered, this fusion proved a welcome concept.I was really looking forward to the Razor Clam Yakisoba and this radiant bowl of "noodles" did not disappoint. Toothsome strands of the mollusks typically favored in Spanish cuisine are lightly dressed in an Asian inspired sauce; accompanied by intensely bright and juicy mandarin oranges.
The soft citrus fruit has been prepared a la plancha, so the wedges became slightly caramelized. A black firecracker of julienned nori strips give this delectable tapas an element of flair.
Another impeccable sashimi style offering was the Monkfish; carefully sliced to a pristine thinness, the translucent white flesh is in gorgeous contrast with the black garlic ink and festive confetti of black sesame. The black garlic adds a wonderful umami flavored complexity and is especially unique in this sticky paste form. Initially mild, the flavors build to a rich savory finish, flattering the subtle sweetness of the Monkfish. This dish was truly something brilliant.
The Braised Oxtail is in stark contrast to the former dishes, this tender cut of meat is warm, juicy and comforting. The heightened meaty flavor, rich and mouth filling was complimented with a clever preparation of remarkably soft and light turnips. A paper thin radish square a top the beef adds a slight hint of tanginess.
With our meal we enjoyed a bottle of Juan Bautista Campo de Borja Yonna, a tempranillo grenacha blend from the region of Aragon. This was a rustic Spanish wine boasting tart cherry on the nose, with pronounced oak flavors and a soft finish.
When it came to dessert, we opted this time for the tasting menu (18€)! A gastronomic parade of magical sweet treats began with a Lemon Ice Tea.
Tart lemon ice cream is scooped over a buttery sable cookie bathing with pineapple chunks in sweet pineapple juices.
The Cherry Tonka presented a smooth scoop of cherry ice cream and a hollowed cherry halve with a golden gelee cube that I can't quite place, and a tonka bean custard. Tonka is reminiscent of vanilla, with a slightly more exotic allure. (Apparently quite the controversial legume, its use in food is banned in the United States by the FDA. Google it!)
In a charming glass jar came Recuit Napolita with strawberry, basil and a foamy custard that was sweet and creamy in one bite, tangy and reminiscent of Greek yogurt in the next. While strawberry and basil are a not an unusual ingredient pairing, this jar of whimsy managed to offer surprises with every bite.
The Caramel Apple Saffron was decidedly fascinating. Over a bed of equally soft yet crispy caramel chocolate crumbles sat an inventive apple saffron ice cream drizzled in a luscious caramel sauce. This was my favorite of the dessert tapas so far, until the grand finale Conguitos ç24 swept in and stole my affections. Over a hazelnut brownie draped with more caramel sat these mystical chocolate bombshells dusted generously in cocoa powder. What would appear to be a dense truffle was in fact a thin shell containing ice cream. It was a nutty praline cream that was all too astonishingly cold and firm. This bite, was bliss. A slate of Petit Fours showed up, of course! These playful gems from left to right are: gold fondant chocolate bars, green tea white chocolate slivers, chocolate covered pine nuts and vanilla panna cotta oreos.A splurge worthy destination, should you choose to dine at Comerç 24, a procession of creative, luxurious, globally inspired tapas awaits!
Comerç 24
C/ Comerç 24
08003 Barcelona

edited to note: Comerc 24 closed in 2015 :(