we are chamonix

 

As per usual post vacation, the outtakes!

The house in the photos is our incredible chalet at le Nants.

Skiing in The Alps

Skiing in Europe means your typical east coast assembly-line-style cafeteria food gets replaced with cozy alpine lodges and quaint mountainside cafes. The food on the slopes was nothing short of amazing.

One day we skied at Domanie du Balme, starting in the village of Le Tour, and venturing down into the little town of Vallorcine on the Swiss border. Le Cafe Comptoir sat tucked at the edge where the mountain meets the village. We sat outside and enjoyed live music, truffle ravioli with prosciutto, a side of frites and a liter of Rose. We learned it was the cafes birthday when they started handing out free vin chaud. Luckily, the pistes at Domaine du Balme are beginner to intermediate so an afternoon of buzzed skiing worked out well here. 

We spent a day in Courmayeur, Italy, where I was extremely fond of the tree skiing and their perfectly cooked al dente pasta. It was snowing heavy and visibility on the slopes was low. We skied untouched powder in the glades all morning and then discovered the food at Christiania that afternoon. A warm, family run ristorante; here we indulged in a heaping plate of cured antipasti meats, taggliolini in a hearty ragu, warm polenta baked with cheese and wild mushrooms, creamy pesto gnocchi and more. All this was followed by fluffy mascarpone infused tiramisu, frothy cappuccinos and sweet limoncello. 

The day we skied Brévent-Flégère we ate mushroom soup with parmesan croutons and jamon et fromage baguettes at La Chavanne.  At this mid mountain outdoor bar they had a live rock band, towers of beer, gorgeous views, a hot tub! It was a Monday afternoon, so still the beginning of the trip, and I remember having to pinch myself as I took it all in. Is this really my life for the week? 

On our final day, after a fantastic morning of skiing off piste at Les Grand Montets with our guide Pierre, it felt like Chalet Refuge de Lognan appeared out of nowhere in between the powder and the trees. At our table for 12 we drank red wine and ate humble plates of leafy green salads in a mustard vinaigrette followed by croutes au fromage (baked bread and cheese) with mushrooms and tomate. For dessert, soft slices of chestnut cake and steaming cups of espresso.

How I adore this crew! It was the trip of a lifetime.

Albert 1er | Chamonix

Luxury (two Michelin star) dining in Chamonix, France at Restaurante Albert 1er was one for the books. Yes, it was a splurge in comparison to your standard meal in Cham, but for a Michelin starred experience, all of it simply exceptional, the six of us who ventured here considered it a reasonable one. (It was 156 euros each and this included two bottles of wine, one was a magnum bottle.) All of us would highly recommend it.

 Robert Blanc green asparagus | black truffle, green herb pasta and parmesan
Foie Gras de Canard two ways | sautéed with mango et passion fruit caramel (pictured) | “ballotine” with quince jelly and apple chutney (not pictured)

Grilled Saint-Jacques scallops | fennel et green apple slaw

"Perle de la Dombes" | duck lacquered in an orange crust w. stewed leg, almond, coriander and lemon preserve, chickpea fritters.

Cheese Trolley | choice of fresh and mature French and Italian cheeses

Dessert Trolley | pastries, cakes, homemade sorbets and ice cream

Warm green Chartreuse soufflé | homemade Chartreuse ice cream
(Unbelievable. Hands down the best soufflé I have ever tasted.) 

Petit Fours, chocolates and caramels

Hameau Albert 1er - Hotel Chamonix

38 rue du Bouchet 

Chamonix Mont Blanc, France 77400

Chamonix - Mont Blanc | France

A big, crazy, adventurous group of friends rented a chalet in the French Alps for a week. In the mighty, crevasse filled, powder steeped, bluebird sky tipped mountains of Chamonix, France (and Cormayeur, Italy) we skied hard. It snowed heavy nearly every evening. By morning as the fog rose steadily above the vast jagged peaks, the warmth of the sunshine combined with the fresh, deep powder, our happiness radiated at a constant high.

The quintessentially French mountain village of Chamonix on the one hand is quaint and inviting, with patisseries and boulangeries where croque monsieur, crepes and Vin Chaud are sold street-side. Fantastic restaurants range from the cozy and homey with steaming French onion soup, pots of fondue, and rich spaghetti carbonara, (topped with a layer of parmesan cheese and a runny egg yolk) to the elegant and refined with escargots bathing in a pesto sauce, buttery foie gras dishes and perfectly cooked duck a l'orange. Add to that a bustling tourist scene with elegant fromage and chocolate shoppes and an endless variety of name brand ski apparel stores. On the other hand it hosts a vibrant après ski and nightlife party, with live music and table dancing, pitchers of Pelfourth and Kronenbourg, bottle service and rounds of shots.

Skiing in the Alps was incomparable. Most notably, there was the 20km off piste run, the legendary Vallee Blanche - which begins with a descent from the top of the Aiguille du Midi. Harnessed to one another and our guides we hiked down a ridge edge with a 40 degree pitch on both sides. Then we skied all day among the glaciers, untouched snow and the most breathtaking scenery Mont Blanc range has to offer. 

 Favorite spots in downtown Chamonix:

Apres Ski - Elevation 1904, Chambre Neuf

Fine Dining - Hameau Albet 1er, Le Cap Horn

Party - Les Caves, Barberousse