P o r t o | Portugal

Welcome to Porto! 

This graffiti was on the building next to our Airbnb. 

 Just here with my family to enjoy your riverfront city in northwest Portugal known for its Azulejo tiled churches, architecturally stunning bridges and port wine cellars. 

I pointed it out to Bob and we both started hysterically laughing. It's so good. What else can you do?!

Despite the graffiti, our young Airbnb host was very welcoming. On Passeio de São Lázaro a pristine 2 bedroom, 1.5 bath modern Penthouse apartment was spread over two floors. We were located directly across from Jardim Marques de Olivera and in the heart of many trendy cafes and restaurants. I feel like we were technically on the border of two neighborhoods - Baxia and Bonfim.  On the very outskirts of downtown (Baxia), above the Ribera, slightly away from the major sights, in the hipster hood that is mostly up and come (Bonfim). 

I had not researched about the individual neighborhoods in Porto. I booked our Airbnb based on the fact that I liked the apartment and its relative location. 

I recently read this article: 10 of the Coolest Neighborhoods to Stay in EUROPE. Bonfim, Porto is featured and I concur!! As well I can empathize why the locals in this once under the radar hood would graffiti with that distinctive message: "Fuck Your Tourism Fetish".

In Bonfim we were located among a plethora of local snack bars, restaurants and cafes. There was bustling Praca Dos Poiveros, plus the best + distinctly well know roasters: COMBI COFFEE. We merely had to step outside our door for a bite to eat or to fuel up in the morning. Oficina dos Rissois and Cervejaria Galeza were both on my radar and both closed on holiday!! On a whim it was Restaurante Poveiros for our very first meal. 

I ordered a Francesinha - the famous local sandwich. Wet-cured ham, linguicia (Portuguese sausage), and steak medium-rare are stashed between thick bread completely cloaked in melted cheese and a dense, coppery sauce. A Francesinha brings subtle flavors of tomato and beer highlighted with piri piri spices. 

Bob ordered the second most famous steak sandwich called a Prego made with thinly sliced beef in a garlic marinade, grilled and served on slightly crunchy bread.

After our first official meal in Porto, the kids were still asleep! We cruised around taking in churches and sites in Baxia and Monte dos Judos. 

There are a TON of cathedrals and churches you can visit in Porto. 

The Igreja de Santo Ildefonso is a stunning example of azulejo tiles. We popped inside Igreja e Torre dos Clergos but did not climb the bell tower which seems to be the main draw. The boys slowly woke up happy and well rested. We hung out in Praca do Infante D. Henrique.

Cam and I visited São Francisco Church known for its lavish baroque interior with ornate gilded carvings. He loved the gold ceilings. "MOMMY look, it's coated in gold!" Pictures are not allowed inside. It was worth a quick trip (€10) but Bob and Ryder decided to skip it. We stepped into Sao Bento Railway Station at night on our walk back from Gaia; the fascinating architecture, tile work, and ceiling detail is worth a look. 

We saw Se Do Porto Cathedral (below) and Carmo and Carmelita churches from the exterior on our TUK TUK Ride. 

The Tuk Tuk was another pick of Camden's. After São Francisco Church we meandered along the Ribera (riverfront) district and his excitement about them encouraged us all to hop on for a 1 hour ride. We careened through the city and even over the bridge to Gaia on a guided tour. At the end of our tour as it neared dusk our guide was kind enough to drop us back at our Airbnb. 

We had dinner in our neighborhood at Cantinho dos Braganca on Praca Dos Poiveros. The square is lively at night and so were the boys. We had a lot of good food - mostly tapas style - but I did not get any photos save for this tasty bowl of prawns.

 Afterwards we went shopping for provisions at the Mini Preco Express across the square. It is late but no one is tired! Jet Lag y'all!

The boys Tuk Tuk and Cable Car happily entertains their breakfast of choice: fluffy croissants. By the way, we are definitely eating a lot of Pastel de Nata but apparently inhaling them so fast they've escaped the camera!! You can see them in the pastry case below at Combi Coffee Roasters (R. do Morgado de Mateus nº29). With breakfast Acai Bowls and expertly roasted coffee, Combi ended our time in Porto on a high note. 

Additional Porto Posts:

Tips for Travel w Kids

Taylor Fladgate Cellars

Vila Nova de Gaia

World of Wine Pink Palace

We certainly didn't exhaust all the possibilities for things to see and do. (A Douro River Cruise, visiting Livaria Lello and Majestic Cafe, for more ideas!) 

The city has an emerging restaurant scene and Eater says it best: "finding a great meal couldn't be easier." 

Porto - a flourishing scene meets old world churches and azulejo tiles, plus one of the coolest neighborhoods in Europe.

Poipu | Kauai

Hawai'i is so much GOODNESS AND BEAUTY. And Honeymooning?! Another level of bliss. 

We were married in Vermont on a perfect May 26th and departed for the state of Hawai'i exactly a week later. Getting there (6 hours to LAX and another 6 to LIH) was a mild travel day in comparison to our last trip across the Pacific! We traveled first to the lush garden isle of Kaua'i and then to the tropical gathering place Oahu. 

Our first destination in the South of Kauai was a popular town called Poip'u. Poipu is conveniently located from the airport in Lihue and lends itself well to that initial honeymoon relaxation stage. Ahhh we did it - let's chill on a beach...but...wait...not for too long; because there's so much to do here! Poipu is also convenient for helicopter touring and exploring the must visit western part of the island: Waimea Canyon and Koke'e State Park. 

We stayed in a charming Airbnb condo at Kiahuna Plantation. From here it was a short walk to a pretty beach cove (where we hung all morning with an adorable Monk Seal) and a quick drive to the main shops, art gallerys and restaurants. All the flower photos I took in our beautifully maintained yard at Kiahuna but make no mistake, the island is filled with flower trees and it's absolutely spectacular. 

But probably the best thing about our location is that it was right across the street from Little Fish Coffee!! From the Honey Nutmeg Latte to fluffy everything bagels with egg, tomato and homemade cream cheese, Little Fish is a can't miss. 

The spectacular Midnight Marauder is four shots of espresso with sweetened condensed milk and vanilla, over ice. The Pakala Bowl is acai topped with peanut butter, banana, blueberries, granola and chocolate chips while the Shippy's Bowl gets it done with acai, yogurt, banana, pineapple, granola and coconut flakes. Both are absolutely wonderful. We enjoyed breakfast on the teal blue deck all three mornings in Poipu. 

We were up early due to the time change, so sitting on the beach until 11 am already felt like a full day. When the helicopter tour company (we had booked for two days later) called and offered us guaranteed front row seats on the 3pm tour, we were game! (Those photos next!) Lunch before the 'copter ride was at Hamura Saimin. We definitely found ourselves in a local, hole in the wall, family run haunt and I loved it. Saimin is basically Hawaiian Ramen and at Hamura's it is really, really good. 

A noteworthy dinner was at Eating House 1849 by Roy Yamaguchi. Edamame is delivered first in lieu of the bread course, it is served cold and crisp with a mild spice. Roy's Blackened Island Ahi proved to be exceptional over chilled soba noodle salad, spicy soy mustard and butter sauce. Also the Tavern Style Fried Chicken - which might seem like an odd choice for Hawaii night 1 but with goat cheese mashed potatoes, local kale and 1849 gravy, it's not a bad option! The macadamia nut blondie was a decadent dessert. 

 A few more glamour shots in Poip'u before we move on....

Don't forget to have a Mai Tai on the lawn at The Beach House. Also be sure to check out Koloa Rum Distillery for a free tasting and to stock up on local Rum for the rest of your trip!