Sevilla | España

Our time in Seville was fabulous, however, getting there was not. We boarded the ferry from Tangier, Morocco for the short journey to Tarifa, Spain. After our ferry docked in Tarifa and we cleared customs our driver was no where to be found. We booked with what seemed a reputable transfer company and the bizarre part is we had been texting with the driver prior to arriving. He ghosted us! A mildly stressful situation - there was a lot of back and fourth, then dinner in Tarifa, finding an ATM and eventually a taxi to get us 2 hours to Seville. I had our amenable taxi driver stop for cervesas and we made the best of our much-later-than-planned road-trip! 

We were so ready to enjoy a night out (remember, we couldn't really drink in Chefchaouen) and it was midnight by the time we checked into our hotel. Fortunately, it was a stones throw from some swanky cocktail bars. 

At The Second Room the girls sipped fruity sangria and I a classic manhattan. Delicious drinks and winding down from all the transfer stress just in time for some extremely drunk old men to hit on us. Off to Torero - a beautiful Brandy cocktail bar. Perfect nightcap! I was enamored with the the presentation of my aged brandy. I was also ready for a comfy bed. 

Palacio Pinello delivered a comfy bed and then some. This 4 star boutique hotel in the Santa Cruz district is housed in a late 15th century palace. The rooms are situated around the stunning central courtyard where we had our breakfast each morning. Our triple room was very spacious, the bathroom and waterfall shower were too! It had soaring ceilings and really pretty furnishings .

In the heart of the historic center we arrived briskly to Real Alcazar where we spent the better part of the morning. I was glad we booked advance tickets to skip the lines. We lunched in Plaza de San Francisco, shopped for the kids, and went for rooftop cava spritzes at La Terraza del EME.  

La Terraraza boasts up close views of the Catedral and La Giralda which we would head to next! The Cathedral de Sevilla is majestic, we breezed through with audio guides. The climb to the top of the bell tower was worth it! Finally, we went for a late afternoon wine tasting at Lama La Uva which allowed a meandering walk to take in more of the sprawling city. 

Sevilla - rallying not dallying. purposefully meandering.

Caffe Vittoria

Where robust LavAzza espresso, smooth with a bitter edge comes brimming with foamed milk coated in a thick blanket of sweet powdered cocoa or a light dusting of cinnamon and sugar, Caffe Vittoria offers some of the best Italian coffee and specialty drinks around. 

They prepare an elegant cup of cappuccino which is even better with a Baileys cordial on the side. The hot chocolate is pleasantly frothy and comforting, great with Frangelico. Specialty drinks like the Caffes namesake blend which has Kahlua, Brandy and Tiramisu Liqueur already blended in are also a worthy choice. 

Sipping a cup at a shiny marble table top in the bustling atmospheric caffe that dates back to 1929 consistently lends a charming experience, an afternoon or an after-dinner nightcap to savor.

Caffe Vittoria

290-296 Hanover St.

Boston, MA 02113

Black Trumpet | Portsmouth

Down a quaint New England brick-side-walked-street bordering a historic port studded with industrial fishing boats sits a mustard yellow barn door iron hinges and a handsome slate sign. 

Creating an inviting façade along a brick back drop - a giant circular sign touting gold lettering swings overhead, black windowpanes form a focal point where plants still bloom in the garden boxes beneath. A gold striped awning above the door frame is the finishing touch. Located here at 29 Ceres Street is the family owned Black Trumpet Bistro serving seasonally inspired, widely influenced American cuisine. A staple in the Portsmouth fine dining scene, I had heard plenty of rave reviews but this evening marked my first time in.

Up a creaky narrow staircase the intimate wine bar overlooks the Piscataqua River. A cozy cave like dining room defined by heavy wood beam ceilings, exposed brick walls and shiny copper table tops is situated on the first floor. Both of these spaces embody a rustic elegance, fit for a romantic duo or a convivial group of 10.After solid day at Red Hook Brewery and exploring downtown Portsmouth, the ladies and I cozied up at the wine bar just as it was opening at 5 pm. We shared pitchers of the fall inspired Harvest Sangria made with white wine, lemon, brandy & autumnal spices, before settling into our table downstairs for our 5:30 reservation.We started with a bread bowl of thinly sliced ciabatta and the restaurants signature bread, a crumbly loaf studded with black trumpets and dates. Accompanying them was a creamy butter laced with orange, this unique pairing sparked intrigue and made fans all around the table. I opted to partake in the restaurant week menu, three courses for $29 is certainly a good deal! I started with the delicately prepared Salt Cod Salad made with heirloom squash, pancetta and brussels sprouts, served warm in a sherry apple vinaigrette. The cod was not overly salty nor overly fishy and as a result of pairing it with classic fall ingredients, the salad struck just the right balance of flavors and texture. You've got a nice sweetness from the heirloom squash, a bitter crunch from the brussels and a firm bite of saltiness from the pancetta. The sherry vinegar and crisp apple dressing adds depth while tying everything together. For my main course the Coq au Vin with porcini-cocoa pappardelle, cob smoked bacon and mushrooms was excellent. The chicken was perfectly braised. This traditionally rustic French preparation is clearly something the chef excels at. The pappardelle added a unique flair to the dish, it was a welcome addition to the earthy mushrooms, smokey bacon and savory chicken. Dessert was less exciting in comparison to its predecessors, but still a job well done. I had a few bites of the German Chocolate Beet Brownie with milk chocolate frosting, beet whip and candied orange peel. I wasn't a huge fan of the brownie itself but that fluffy beet whip topping was pretty awesome. For my Indian Pudding with whipped vanilla custard and golden raisin sauce, I actually expected it would come at a warmer temperature. It was a just OK bread pudding for me.If you find yourself in the city of Portsmouth the Black Trumpet is definitely worth checking out, both the bistro and wine bar, on separate occasions or all at once. The cozy restaurant was packed as the girls and I made our way out. You'll be in good company should you decide to pay them a visit!