Vila Nova de Gaia

Going to Gaia! 

Gaia is the village across the Douro River from Porto. You head here for Port Wine Cellar Tours and to see the beautiful sunset over Porto's Ribera District. Camden expressed with a lot of enthusiasm the things he wanted to do once we arrived - and one of those things was taking the train! Always one to love checking out a cities public transportation system, we navigated Metro do Porto from our closest train station at Campo 24 Agosto, changed lines at Trindade and over the Dom Luis 1 Bridge we sped to our final stop General Torres. 

Crossing this iconic bridge either by train or on foot (preferably one of each!) is a great thing to do in Porto. The upper level is for the metro and the lower level is for cars and pedestrians. Getting off at General Torres and walking towards Taylor's afforded us a peaceful walk with gorgeous views across the Douro looking back at Porto.

After Taylor Fladgate and Pink Palace we made a spontaneous stop into Fonseca. (It was right there!) What can I say we were on a roll. Fonseca has a port and chocolate pairing so indeed more fun for the kids was had. (We drank the port, the boys got some chocolate.) 

We headed downhill from the terracotta-topped port wine warehouses to Cais de Gaia. This did involve folding up the stroller and carrying it down some staircases.

Cais means pier so now we are on the Gaia waterfront; a district teeming with excitement. There's live music, marching bands, cute shops and lots of restaurants. The boys got some ice cream and a toy each (a Porto cable car and a TukTuk)! We got draft Super Bocks and listened to a band before settling in for a traditional Portuguese dinner at Beira Rio. I had a glass of white wine from Douro (the pours are bigger here, right?) and Bacalhau. More specifically Bolinhos de bacalhau which are salt cod croquettes made with a mixture of potatoes, bacalhau (codfish), eggs, parsley and onion. Ryder loved these too and here began one of his favorite words to say on the trip. B A C A L H A U. Super cute. Both boys ate lots of french fries. That's a great thing about Portugal: restaurants always have simple, medium cut, golden yellow French fries on the menu. Camden probably survived on them. 

The sun is setting and Camden has fallen fast asleep in the stroller. Ryder took a long nap earlier so he's awake for shopping at The Fantastic World of the Portuguese Sardine and some truly wonderful cocktails at House of Sandeman on The Terrace Bar. Mine had Basil, Bob's had a a toasted marshmallow! We crossed the Eiffel Tower inspired (it was designed by a disciple of Gustaf Eiffel) Dom Luis 1 Bridge on foot and our epic day in Gaia has come full circle back to Porto!

It's Monaco (€9) Porto Sandeman Beat White infusionado com Marshmallow, Sumo de Limão, Cranberry Juice, Brown Sugar Syrup, Egg White and Caramelized Marshmallow

Le Centaure (€12) Sandeman Beat White, Gin Grennall’s, Sumo de Limão, Xarope de Açúcar, Macerated Basil and Ginger and Basil Leaf

Vinhos do Porta Fonseca

Rua do Chopelo, 84

4400-187 Vila Nova de Gaia

Beira Rio

Av. de Diogo Leite, 64

4400-111 Vila Nova de Gaia

The Sandeman Terrace

Largo Miguel Bombarda, 67

4404-507 Vila Nova de Gaia

Granada | Spain

"Oh Morocco is cool, yea Sevilla is great, but Granada, well, Granada is something else. Granada is really special, you'll see" ~ rental car agent @ the Renfe Station

She was not wrong. In fact she was completely accurate. Voicing her own strong opinion - her statement stuck with me. It was a welcome conversation as we retuned the rental car despite the fact that we were running late. We needed to grab a taxi and check into Hotel Casa 1800 before making our way to Alhambra. We had a ticketed time an hour prior to closing at 8pm. (You have to book in advance, and this was the only time slot we could get while we were here!)

After spending time in the city streets you feel it. Granada is special, something beyond, 10/10, our favorite on this trip. It's not bragging or in your face, it's sneaky stunning and casually hip. 

After our hurried arrival and rush to Alhambra we slowed it all down. We wandered. We ate good food. We leisurely shopped. We drank. We stayed out late. 

Can we move here? That's the vibe. Granada totally gave us "European city we could live in vibes". 

From the bright, clean streets of Centro with unique and pretty fountains in abundance, to the winding narrow pathways as you climb or descend the Albaicin, there's so much leisurely wandering to be had in Granada.

GRANADAAAA we love you so. 

Eat here: Pimienta Rosa | Atelier Casa de Comidas

Drink here: Mama Samba | Lemon Rock | Bar Chaplin | Calle Elvira area | 

Sad we missed: Bar Axia "heart of the Albayzin" (it was closed! situated on a charming old school plaza, looks like a perfect tapas bar stop.) Las Tomasas - originally had a dinner reservation but called an audible as timing / location didn't work out. 

Views: El Huerto | Plaza de San Nicolas

Dinner was a miss here: La Cuchara de Carmela. I guess we had high expectations and none of us were in love with our meals. 

Stay here: Hotel Casa 1800. A really unique hotel tucked in a cave like setting between the exact neighborhoods you want to be for exploring - Albaicin + Centro. A beautiful continental breakfast spread is included. The rooms felt cozy yet elegant. 

Granada - leisure, late nights + fountains. Group consensus favorite.