San Gimignano | Tuscany

One Fire Beach | Praiano

Allow me to introduce the other side of Praiano which is actually called The Praiano Side. The Vettica Side is where we stayed. It would be a shame to visit Praiano and not explore both sides. 

From the western facing part of town you can view Positano in the distance and walk down many steps to the popular orange chair + orange umbrella lined One Fire Beach! 

To get from one side of Praiano to the other there is a bus that drives the main loop making frequent stops. You could definitely walk although it is far! Our bus stop was conveniently located at the bottom of Flavia Goa. (Flavia Goa is the pedestrian only street where our Airbnb was located.)

Make sure to have coins for the bus - and a baby counts as a full person even if they are attached! The drivers are helpful to point out your stop if you let them know where you're headed. 

The stop for the steps down to One Fire are at San Gennaro Church. 

And from there enjoy a scenic walk twisting and turning with signs and local artwork to guide you. 

Camden loved the squid sculpture!

We arrived around 1 pm to a concrete beach club ever so stylishly nestled into the cliff side. The friendly staff gave us our pick of lounge chairs. While Camden was the only baby here we didn't feel out of place with him, we felt welcomed. As the afternoon lingered One Fire became more and more crowded and it turns into quite the scene - queue the infamous watermelon cutting dance party! Also, a weekday in September tends to be the start of the slow season, in the high season you'd need a lounge chair reservation. 

We had the best day here. We made friends with a couple from Denver, Colorado on their honeymoon and I'm pretty sure Camden convinced them to go ahead for that honeymoon baby. 

We headed out around 6 pm leaving behind a pretty tipsy crowd which I have a feeling was only getting started. We were off to enjoy the sunset at Bar Del Sol located at the top of the steps across from the church. 

It was apparently a day for Aperol Spritz selfies. Meanwhile, Camden makes friends nearly everywhere he goes. Here he is hanging out with Roberto who has lived in Praiano all his life. 

After sunset we had a nice dinner at Cafe Novanta Quatro. Our meals were off the charts good. That perfect plate of rigatoni, tomato sauce and meatballs was accompanied by crusty bread and red wine. Quite literally there is nothing more satisfying!

The following evening was our 5th and final night in Praiano. Multiple people we met while here raved on and on about Criscitos. This pizza restaurant is just over the hill from Vettica into Praiano so we walked up and over and grabbed a table outside just in time for another sunset.

Criscitos is know for their fried pizza and it sure is something. I recommend getting a fried pizza and a regular pizza, I was astounded at how good both were. The menu selection is large and varied so we spent a great deal of time making a decision. It felt right to go for a simple one and an all out one. We also had a ridiculously good octopus carpaccio and a rare treat in Italy, craft beers!

This is very much a time where my photos are not living up to how good the food is here. If that just looks like a bunch of meat piled onto a pizza I'm sorry but it was one of the best pizzas I have ever had!! Salumi featuring mortadella are topped with pesto, pine nuts, fresh parsley, and tiny balsamic pearls that explode in your mouth.

Meanwhile, Camden was sleeping on my lap, the little angel! He is such a trooper at all these dinners out, it's honestly so much fun to bring him everywhere. We are lucky he's such an awesome and healthy baby. 

My parting words on Praiano: Make sure you visit both sides, don't hesitate to take your baby to One Fire Beach, Criscitos is a must visit for their fried Pizza!

Our day trip to Positano is up next.

R O M E | I T A L Y

ROME! Oh my goodness, Rome. Where to begin when you've traveled to Italy for 3 weeks, haven't visited your little blog space in 5 months, your son is 7 months old and you're just trying to spend as many precious moments with him as you can!?

Traveling across Italy with my family was beyond extraordinary. We started in Rome via a direct flight on Norwegian Air. Camden did great on his first flight!

We bought him his own seat and carried on his (TSA approved, UPPAbaby Mesa) car seat. We gate checked the UPPAbaby Vista stroller in this travel bag. For take off and landing I was told by the flight attendant he needed to be on my lap as opposed to in his car seat (however, this was not the case on the flight home, same airline.) They give you a baby seat belt that attaches to yours - it's the orange belt in the photo below. He was a happy first time flyer!

To spend all this time together unencumbered by the rituals of work and daycare, to absorb leisurely moments at the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, Campo di Fiori, Piazza Navona, the Colosseum, St. Peters Basilica, The Vatican! Of course, there is so much more to Italy's capital city than the glorious list of major attractions. Rome was about meandering under a warm Italian sky, eating [plates overflowing with fresh burrata], and drinking [bright orange Aperol Spritzes] our way through the uber charming streets of our home base neighborhood Trastevere, and across the river in Testaccio, while embracing Camden at a happy and playful 6 months of age. Fully immersed in the joy he brings to us and others was the best part of our time, the reason for it all! 

We truly L O V E D this city. I hope you enjoy a glimpse into Rome with The Luiso Family (part 1).

The crowds at the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain are simply nuts! Popular city spaces like these really pack everyone into a single more confined area. Letting the beauty sink in and taking a moment to tune everyone else out, to be awestruck and gain an appreciation for the grandness and intricacy of the artwork and sculptures - of the massive polished steps and the thundering fountain before you. 

The beauty of Rome is also in discovering the lesser known city spaces like the Galleria Sciarra which is a short walk from the Trevi Fountain at Piazza dell'Oratorio. The painted frescoes in this towering open courtyard are stunning. The equally quiet and breathtaking streets that wind around Trevi / Via Del Corso area are definitely worth exploring.

The Pantheon is remarkable. It is honestly brilliant, magnificent and larger than I pictured. Camden was napping peacefully when we arrived and I was thinking he'd miss it because we would not be here too long. No matter when that seemed to be the case, he had a sense about him to wake up and take it all in. Of course, those memories won't stand the test of time, but to see him enjoying himself as he looks to take in his new surroundings is a wonderful thing. 

We had a great lunch at Tagliere Toscano on the outskirts of Piazza Navona. This place is a hidden gem with daily not-listed-on-the-blackboard sandwich specials. Thinly sliced whisps of Mortadella with balsamico and arugula + thick cut steamy Pancetta with pesto, burrata + tomato were both so, so good; washed down with a crisp white wine.

There was lots of Piazza Navona area strolling under the warm Italian sun. I love a gorgeous European fountain on display!