Sensing | Fairmont Battery Wharf

Saturday date night saw Adam and I trekking through the slushy streets and around large snowbanks to the outskirts of the North End to dine at Sensing -  inspired by Chef Guy Martin's French restaurant of the same name in Paris. (Or at least it once was. Many reviews I have read lead me to believe it is lacking in such acclaim.)

Just outside the bustling Italian streets we know and love, Sensing is situated on the quiet Boston waterfront tucked inside the luxurious Fairmont Battery Wharf Hotel. We did not have a reservation and while the restaurant was pleasantly busy we did notice a few open tables. We were asked to wait at the bar while they got our table ready. I was secretly happy with the outcome, not at all minding the wait in favor of taking a seat at the handsome beige leather bar stools with a uniquely low back and the capacity to swivel elegantly in a semi circle.

The bar itself might be one of the most beautiful I have ever sipped a drink at; made entirely of Tigers Eye, a brilliant (and expensive) semi precious stone of the quartz family. Shades from dark and golden brown to pearly white emit a silky lustrous glow. I ordered a Cilantro Sting ($14) an imaginative blend of hand-pressed cilantro, Serrano Chiles, Ultimat Vodka, Patron Silver and freshly squeezed lime juice. The bartender questioned before he went on to muddle the cilantro, if I liked spice. My enthusiastic and resounding yes! and the fact that he even had to ask in the first place had me eagerly anticipating a drink with some serious heat factor.

The cocktail disappointed on that note almost immediately. Wait for it, sometimes that kick seeps in after the initial sweetness....nope. Why did the bartender feel the need to question my love of heat? It was not spicy unless you count eating the Serrano Chile garnish. It was beautifully infused with cilantro which tempered the sweet lime juice. The only sting it was backing was the buzz I quickly encountered from the Vodka and Patron. Overall it had a drinkability factor that I enjoyed! It simply did not bring the heat ;)

Sensing's hotel chic interior is understated but still felt welcoming and cozy. With soft carpeting underfoot, classic dining room chairs with sea foam green upholstery pull up to  modern lacquered wood tabletops supported by a single column and aluminum base. Similar wooden columns and sheer gray curtains separate the dining room space giving certain tables like ours a very intimate feel.

The menu is focused on contemporary world cuisine and with that, Adam knew right away he wanted to order The traditional Bouillabaisse de Marseille ($29); especially when learning the executive chef himself hails from Marseille. We traveled to Marseille, France in September 2009 and Bouillabaisse was all that we ate there. Exhibit 1, 2 , 3 & 4:

Immediately nostalgic for those blissful nights on vacation at fancy cafes in Southern France, we were disappointed to learn the that Sensing was out of this dish. How do you run out of what would seemingly be the chefs signature dish at 8:30 pm?I digress from the points of negativity. Our waitress Rianne introduced herself with a genuine smile and welcoming energy, complimenting my hounds tooth nails and happily accepting our 50% off coupon at the start of the meal. (They were handing them out at the Buon Natalie Holiday Stroll, stamped with an expiration date of 1/31/11.) Don't you wonder about deals like that? 50% off seemed almost too good to be true and is this restaurant in trouble because no one hands out coupons like that?! Well, the process went as smooth as could be. Rianne graciously accepted the coupon, nodding and referencing the Holiday Stroll deal as she placed it in her apron. The rolls came out next, toasty warm and with a slab of soft butter in a most unique dish! The Tasty Teasers ($14) is a cutting edge appetizer plate of six different amuse bouche. (You could also order six of the same.) I was positively giddy when the animated platter was placed in front of me. I was introduced to each bite and Rianne also explained the suggested order in which to enjoy. First, the Wellfleet Oyster was a supreme slurp of a local delicacy bathed in a shallot and vinegar granité. This cold palate pleaser started the journey off just right. Next up in complete contrast to the former was a warm Beef Empanada, flaky and served in a spicy cranberry dip. Following was the Fried Crabcake - a compact crispy bite that holds its own with no dipping sauce necessary. Working my way through, the Lychee Stuffed with Tuna offered yet another bracingly different note. The succulent and sweet subtle flavored Thai fruit enveloped a fish of similar soft silky texture. The bite delivered with it a healthy dusting of mild pepper resembling the consistency of fine grained sand. Wow, that really was something else. I didn't want this plate to end. The Corn and chorizo filled eggshell boasted dehydrated corn kernels atop a super luxurious sweet creamy mixture. I didn't understand the chorizo aspect (where was it?)The Cauliflower with White Chocolate Soup was a balanced sip of liquid that was neither hot nor cold, neither savory nor overly sweet. The smooth sip begins with a mild cauliflower taste and finishes with creamy white chocolate. As a whole, this brilliantly orchestrated dish that artfully blends taste, textures and colors allows the restaurant to live up to its namesake and officially my appetite was teased. I ordered a glass of the Douglas Hill Chardonnay ($9) to accompany my entrée of Thai inspired Lobster Linguine Bolognese ($30) Thin strands of bright green and pastel yellow pasta were draped in a buttery cilantro lime sauce accompanied by a succulent lobster claw dusted with cheese and tarragon.Upon digging into the linguine the Bolognese sauce laced with even more chunks of tender lobster revealed itself! It sat hidden in a compact shape in the middle of the pasta which I thought was a playful element to the dish. The flavors of cilantro and lime in the light buttery sauce mingling with the tomato and lobster in the Bolognese made for a truly unique tasting entrée. It was very good, I cleaned my plate.
I enjoyed my full bodied $9 glass of chardonnay that retails for $5.99 a bottle. (Could have fooled me, this 2buckchuck stuff was tasty.)
Then I disappeared.I came back to eat dessert. We ordered the Almond Cake ($10).I'm not really sure what Adam did. I think he drank some coffee out of this swanky mug. The Almond cake was light and airy as it took somewhat of a back seat role, allowing the other elements of this dessert to shine. The sea salt gelato was exquisite as it melted into a bed of crunchy almonds while the cake acted as a sponge for the creamy olive oil pool. The red pepper emulsion surrounding the outskirts of the plate was a radical touch. Overall this dessert leaves me feeling perplexed, in a good way. Sensing most certainly lived up to their motto as a culinary journey for the mind, body and spirt. The dishes showed creativity and precise technique. Our waitress Rianne delivered flawless service, her presence timed at just the right intervals. We felt perfectly content to linger over dishes and amuse ourselves with loud laughter and silly photographs, which is exactly how date nights should be.

Sensing

3 Battery Wharf

Boston, MA 02109