L i s b o n | Portugal

Lisbon is outstanding. Our kids loved it here. Right outside our Airbnb it was lively in a way that said: make sure everyone is aware this is a bustling area with small calçada sidewalks, Tuk Tuks tucking by and the mustard yellow Tram careening through; a main thoroughfare of morning commuters, big delivery trucks navigating narrow turns and lots of foot traffic. We were in Baixa at the edge of Alfama and the outskirts of Rossio Square where Rua dos Douradores intersects Rua de Conceicão.

The cobblestone sidewalks throughout Lisbon are iconic. This detailed craft done by hand is one of the oldest national professions, a staple image of Portugal. Paying homage to each sidewalk or square we came across, the tile work combines structure and elegance, historical uniqueness and complexity. 

Our rental car was parked four blocks away on a steep hill in Alfama where we left it safely for the duration of our stay. Overnight street parking was no issue and we fed the meter each morning. The situation overall was a breeze. We were close to everything, we loved our modern accommodations at Ando Living Townhouse and we adored the city of Lisbon. Our Airbnb was truly hassle free, all key pad operated, and beautifully renovated. 

It seemed worth stressing that Lisbon's downtown commercial district/main thoroughfare is incredibly busy - with construction to navigate directly in front of our apartment. Something to love (construction, no, the bustling energy, yes!) and bask in but to simply be aware of with little travelers in tow. There are plenty of spots in this city to remain carefree and not be as vigilant about their street safety. 

On our first day exploring I carried Ryder in the Ergobaby (his red Tuk Tuk in hand!) and Camden did great walking. Our plans were Castelo de Sao Jorge which is at the top of Alfama hill and riding Tram 12E from Martim Moniz Square. These are not exactly stroller friendly activities as Alfama has lots of steps and the trams are small and crowded. It was a nice change of pace to be liberated of the stroller!

Similar to Porto, we'd step out ready to take on the day - but first - the closest brunch option, please! Cafe Nicolau (Rua de São Nicolau, 17) was so pretty and inviting with glazed turquoise subway tiles and funky hexagon floors. Our waitress seated us in a kid friendly u-shaped booth and delivered crayons. She mentioned having little kids of her own and then disappeared half way through our meal. We felt neglected and finally flagged down an alternate waiter to get us on with our day. My cocktail - a perfect mix of Gin, melon, avocado and basil (€8) was fantastic, my eggs benedict (€7,80) were not. (All the food looks so lovely - I definitely ordered wrong.) The boys LOVED the mango, orange and coconut milk (€5) smoothie. 

Castelo de Sao Jorge affords stunning views of Lisbon as it sprawls and of the behemoth Tagus River. It's giving very different vibes compared to Porto x The Douro. It felt so meaningful to experience both. Sao Jorge is an A+ spot for kids. They can explore with you and run around a bit. 

Tip: bathrooms are down a narrow/steep/slippery staircase (when someone has to go but you're halfway across the castle!) There's a snack bar so naturally we got Super Bock and popsicles.

I bought tickets only a couple weeks in advance. What's nice is you do not book a day or time, you just book and it expires in 90 days. Perfect! We did bypass a semi-long line having purchased beforehand.  Kids are free but still require a ticket.

Truly obsessed with these boys, their love for each other, their love for discovering. 

/ when you keep trying for that family selfie but someone won't look / ;)

/ when your boys pick you flowers /

After exploring to our hearts content and taking in all the vibrant viewpoints of the city we departed the Castelo walls and meandered back into the narrow graffiti lined streets of Alfama. We walked downhill into Baixa towards Martim Moniz Square in the direction of those cheerful yellow painted trams.

 

Riding Tram 12E was our plan based on a tip I read in this New York Times article. We watched as hoards of passengers boarded Tram 28E with no 12E in sight. The boys were patient but eager while we waited 15 minutes before finally deciding we would be riding 28E too. What NYT does not tell you is: everyone rides Tram 28E because it is so frequent. Maybe you want to wait on 12E to avoid crowds and that's probably a great idea too. 

The tram ride was exciting especially so to watch the boys take it all in. Careening through gorgeous neighborhoods with wide open windows, a warm breeze, everyone waving, so much energy and beauty radiates from the streets of Lisbon. Meanwhile, the historic Remodelado Trams themselves are steeped in charm with polished wooden interiors and classic brass dials. 

You can imagine you've stepped back in time; perhaps to a magical existence where you live on a steep hill in a Pombaline style building covered in hand-painted tile. A Lisbon before it was a bucket list destination and all the crowds infiltrating your commute or trip to the grocery store. 

We trundled along on Tram28E to the end of the line at Campo Ourique which is not a loop. You must disembark and re-board (pay €3 again) to complete the journey back. You certainly do not need to ride it this far but we did as the kids decided to nap! Camden curled up in Bob's lap and Ryder dozed off in mine (my arm supporting his head for prime Ergobaby napping). Camden does not usually nap but thinking of how much he walked and how many steps he climbed, this made sense! Unexpected tram naps for the win, to fuel our night out, too boot.

Tips for riding: Pay the driver exact fare. Get off on the back. Kids under 6 are free. Tips for kids: do something active first and then ride the tram, it's a nice rest for everyone and especially their little legs!

On the return trip we got off in the stylish Chiado District. We were well rested but a little cranky and hungry. Sacolinha Pastelaria e Padraria (Rua Paiva de Andrada nº4/12) lured us in for cappuccino, pastel de nata and chocolate creme filled malasadas. Sacolinha was very good and with multiple locations you might just be so lucky! After everyone was satiated with sweets and used the restrooms; we discovered a McDonald's next door and grabbed the boys french fries to go. We listened to music in the square before deciding our next move for the evening. What an excellent day. We could not be enjoying ourselves anymore if we tried. Lisbon, we love you!