Rossio Square + Baixa | Lisbon

 

Day 2 in Lisbon! Bob had to work this morning so the boys and I headed out on a walk in search of their two favorite things: toys and snacks. Perhaps we were in search of my favorite thing too: brightly colored azulejo tiles. 

Beyond the construction which was an actual barrier across street intersections on Rua da Prata we discovered an entire elegantly laid out pedestrian friendly area, where wide open streets are perfect for strolling and shopping. I got a Super Bock tee shirt. Camden got Milka Chocolate and a Lisbon tram tee. Ryder got a Lollipop. They got a set of toy race cars to share. 

I learned the streets of the Baixa grid are named after old professions. Rua dos Douradores (our street) is after gilders. Rua dos Correiros are saddlers. Then Rua da Fanqueiros is fabric traders. 

We regrouped with Bob at the Airbnb as he finished work and headed out together down Rua dos Sapateiros (cobblers!) under the Arco do Banderia into the hub of Baixa, Rossio Square.  The waves of the ocean represented in the pavement tiles really spoke to me. As did A Ginjinha Espineria a tiny bar counter in Rossio where you order a sweet liqueur made from sour cherries known as Ginja. It is served in a shot glass and you sip it. 

More specifically, Ginjinha is Morello Cherries soaked in a distilled spirit called aquardente. There are multiple locations of tiny bars that serve it, constituting a quintessential Lisbon experience. There might be a line but it moves quickly and everyone mingles outside anyways so it's fun. 

It is actually really cool for me to connect the tiles here in Portugal with the tiles on the promenades fronting Ipanema and Copacabana beaches. Portugal's are the OG with Brazil modeled after them. 

The shopping and the strolling continued. Camden picked out trinkets for his cousin Lilah, his neighborhood best friends Sammy and Adeline, and his Nana! Then, we turned down Rua das Portas de Santo Antao a pedestrian only walkway off Rossio Square. Drinks at a local Cervejaria brought to you by the racecars the boys picked out earlier. A paper tablecloth lending itself as a racetrack brought to you by Camden's creativity / happenstance. Then we stopped briefly at Elevador do Lavra before continuing to Avenida Da Liberidade. 

S U P E R  B O C K love. 

Day 2: Still so into you, Lisbon. The rest of DAY 2 and NIGHT 3 choose your own adventures next!

A Gaúcha | Lisboa

Upon arrival to Lisbon we had a seamless check-in at our pristine, well appointed, chicly furnished Airbnb and were off in search of dinner!

Our first night's dinner at A Gaúcha followed in smooth fashion. This was a whim destination and one of our best family dinners yet. The polished vibe felt more in line with being an adult; the brightly lit space nodded to upscale and the boys were well behaved. I felt something in me really relax after our long travel day with a crisp glass of vinho verde in hand. To think we started the morning in Porto, spent time in Nazare and have now made it to Lisbon. Everyone is thriving!

 While the staff prepared our table, the welcoming manager grabbed us wine and chatted, he told me they own the three restaurants in a row on this pedestrian only street. Historically it was a row of warehouses dedicated to salting, processing and selling the coveted Cod fish. R. dos Bacalhoeiros translates to "Cod-Fishing". Fun! 

The food felt much like the restaurant itself: a little more upscale yet unfussy and comforting at the same time. PicaPau de Vaca (€12) offered tender cubes of fillet sautéed in olive oil, garlic, bay leaves, mustard and white wine. This was a super flavorful and filling appetizer. My grilled octopus entrée Polvo na grelha (€18) with batata, grelos, azeite e alho (potato, greens, olive oil and garlic) was excellent. As was Bob's Sea Bass - Robalo (€18) con molho de açafrão das índias (with indian saffron sauce). Ryder ate everything, including the octopus. Camden ate French Fries and perfected his WikkiStix art. Dessert was a glorious Pudim de Doce de Leite (€5). The hospitality felt throughout was top notch; our waitress was very sweet and attentive.

 I've been posting little videos here and there - capturing the scene and hanging onto those vacation vibes. Plus, proof that Ryder loves octopus!

For a perfectly wonderful meal in Lisbon on a historical and charming street, A Gaúcha was the epitome of hospitality to our traveling family. 

A GAUCHA

R. dos Bacalhoeiros 26D

1100-389 Lisboa, Portugal

(interior photo source)

L i s b o n | Portugal

Lisbon is outstanding. Our kids loved it here. We stayed in Baixa District at the edge of Alfama and on the outskirts of Rossio Square where Rua dos Douradores intersects Rua de Conceicão. A considered awareness for the kids: Baixa is lively. Outside our Airbnb the neighborhood hustles and bustles with small calçada sidewalks, Tuk Tuks tucking by and the mustard yellow Tram careening through - it's a main thoroughfare of morning commuters, big delivery trucks navigating narrow turns, and lots of foot traffic. 

The cobblestone mosaics throughout Lisbon are iconic!! The handcrafted detail paying homage to each sidewalk or square is one of the oldest National professions! The tile work strikes awe with every step, combining structure, elegance, historical uniqueness, and complexity. 

Our rental car was parked four blocks away on a steep hill in Alfama where we left it safely for the duration of our stay. Overnight street parking was no issue and we fed the meter each morning. The situation overall was a breeze. We were close to everything, we loved our modern accommodations at Ando Living Townhouse and we adored the city of Lisbon. Our Airbnb was truly hassle free, all key pad operated, and beautifully renovated. It seemed worth stressing that Lisbon's downtown commercial district/main thoroughfare is incredibly busy - with construction to navigate directly in front of our apartment. Something to love (construction, no, the bustling energy, yes!) and bask in but to simply be aware of with little travelers in tow. There are plenty of spots in this city to remain carefree and not be as vigilant about their street safety. 

On our first day exploring I carried Ryder in the Ergobaby (his red Tuk Tuk in hand!) and Camden did great walking. Our plans were Castelo de Sao Jorge which is at the top of Alfama hill and riding Tram 12E from Martim Moniz Square. These are not exactly stroller friendly activities as Alfama has lots of steps and the trams are small and crowded. It was a nice change of pace to be liberated of the stroller!

Similar to Porto, we'd step out ready to take on the day - but first - the closest brunch option, please! Cafe Nicolau (Rua de São Nicolau, 17) was  pretty and inviting with glazed turquoise subway tiles and funky hexagon floors. Our waitress seated us in a kid friendly u-shaped booth and delivered crayons. She mentioned having little kids of her own and then disappeared half way through our meal. We felt neglected and finally flagged down an alternate waiter to get us on with our day. My cocktail - a striking mix of gin, melon, avocado and basil (€8) was fantastic, my eggs benedict (€7,80) were not. (All the food looks so lovely - I definitely ordered wrong.) The boys LOVED the mango, orange and coconut milk (€5) smoothie. 

Castelo de Sao Jorge affords stunning views of Lisbon as it sprawls and of the behemoth Tagus River. It's giving very different vibes compared to Porto x The Douro, affirming it was meaningful to experience both. Sao Jorge is an A+ spot for kids. They can explore with you and run around a bit. There's a snack bar so naturally we got Super Bock and popsicles.

I bought tickets a couple weeks in advance. What's nice is you do not select a day or time, you just book and it expires in 90 days. Perfect! We did bypass a semi-long line having purchased beforehand.  Kids are free but still require a ticket.

Truly obsessed with these boys, their love for each other, their love for discovering. 

/ when you keep trying for that family selfie but someone won't look / ;)

/ when your boys pick you flowers /

After exploring to our hearts content and basking in the vibrant viewpoints of the city, we departed the Castelo walls. We meandered once again among the narrow graffiti lined streets of Alfama, downhill towards Martim Moniz Square in the direction of those cheerful yellow painted trams.

 

Riding Tram 12E was our plan based on a tip I read in this New York Times article. We watched as hoards of passengers boarded Tram 28E with no 12E in sight. The boys were patient but eager for 15 minutes before we decided we would be riding Tram 28E too. What NYT does not tell you is: everyone rides Tram 28E because it is frequent. Maybe you want to wait longer on 12E to avoid crowds and that's probably a great idea too!

The tram ride was exciting especially so to watch the boys take it all in. Careening through gorgeous neighborhoods with wide open windows, a warm breeze, everyone waving, so much energy and beauty radiates from the streets of Lisbon. Meanwhile, the historic Remodelado Trams themselves are steeped in charm with polished wooden interiors and classic brass dials. 

Imagine you've stepped back in time to a classic Lisbon existence, living on a steep hill in a Pombaline style building covered in hand-painted tile. A Lisbon before it was a bucket-list-big destination and all the crowds infiltrating your commute or trip to the grocery store. 

We trundled along on Tram28E to the end of the line at Campo Ourique - which is not a loop. You must disembark and re-board (pay €3 again) to complete the journey back. You certainly do not need to ride the tram this far but we did as the kids decided to nap! Camden curled up in Bob's lap and Ryder dozed off in mine (my arm supporting his head for prime Ergobaby napping). Camden does not typically nap but considering how much he walked and how many steps he climbed, this made sense! Unexpected tram naps for the win, to fuel our night out, too boot.

Tips for riding: 1) Pay your driver the exact fare. 2) Disembark on the back. 3) Kids under 6 are free. Tips for kids: do something active first and then ride the tram, it's a nice rest for everyone and especially their little legs!

On the return trip we hopped off in the stylish Chiado District, well rested but a little cranky and hungry. Sacolinha Pastelaria e Padraria (Rua Paiva de Andrada nº4/12) lured us in for cappuccino, pastel de nata and chocolate creme filled malasadas. Sacolinha was very good and with multiple locations you might just be so lucky! After everyone was satiated with sweets; we discovered a McDonald's next door and grabbed the boys french fries to go. We listened to music in the square before deciding our next move for the evening. What an excellent day. We could not be enjoying ourselves anymore if we tried. Lisbon, we love you!