Dreamy Praiano on the Amalfi Coast far far exceeded our expectations. This was the one destination on our Italian adventure that had us a little nervous traveling with our six month old son, Camden. Turns out we were above and beyond fulfilled as a family. Some initial thoughts and all the photos of our favorite beach here.
Praiano is divided into two mains parts - the Vettica side (East) and Praiano side (West). On one side you get the dream like sunrises, the other those major sunsets over Positano. I did not know this distinction or very much else about Praiano until we arrived, besides its general location nestled in between the popular towns of Positano and Amalfi.
The Airbnb I booked was Casa Cla located on the Vettica side. In the photo above it is the white building in the center with our laundry out to dry. As an aside, I loved hanging our laundry over the balcony clothesline. For me, simple chores on vacation are sometimes the most pleasurable thing you can do. To feel like I am in a sense living somewhere, if even for five days. I tend to not want to fill my days with time management to dos like tours or excursions or cooking classes, what have you, (especially so now with a baby). I just want to slow down and enjoy life and my family and good food and, with views like this one, laundry.
Casa Cla's location on charming Via Flavia Goa was chosen in part because we would not have to journey up or down 300 steps to arrive with a baby and stroller in tow. We were dropped off on the main loop road, Via Umberto and then had a short walk uphill (and a few steps to the second floor).
With a sweet little playground and lively San Tommaso church right next door, I truly felt something special here; we were immersed in a precious local neighborhood.
Wandering the maze of never-ending steps it was mostly quiet and peaceful. You'd find older women gardening tomatoes and peppers or families and young children out and about. Our local marino Tutto x Tutti at the bottom of Flavia Goa was one of my favorite experiences. A teeny market with a deli counter in the back and well stocked with the best Italian foods + drinks, I loved shopping there. I was also a big fan of preparing our breakfasts and aperitivo in our spacious Italian kitchen and serving them on the sun soaked terrace.
I got the sense our young host inherited the apartment from her Grandmother who lived here all her life. It had serious old school Italian charm and was filled with shelves of beautiful glass ware, trays and treasures. Our bed had a teal velour headboard and matching pastel comforter. All the gorgeous furniture and exquisite woodwork on the doors, windows and cabinets gave off this vibe of an apartment steeped in time, of needing no upgrades and still feeling utterly perfect and stylish.
We were able to walk everywhere on the Vettica side with Camden strapped safely in the Ergobaby. He loves this. (Everywhere = Beach and Dinners.) Speaking of, our dinners on the Vettica side were incredible!! Kasai is a must visit and we also enjoyed La Moressa and Ristorante M'Ama.
The warm and welcoming folks at Kasai served champagne as we waited for a table. The food was phenomenal and elegant, from the best stuffed red pepper we have ever had to my spicy shrimp linguine to Bob's filet with shaved black truffle. This was also the dinner that will remain in memory with infamous baby pterodactyl screams, constant and piercing, so loud we had to walk him outside a couple times. We were in such an intimate space and worried about disturbing the other diners. No one seemed to mind though, lucky he's so so cute!
The setting at La Moressa was stunning and my pasta dish very good. The staff were not as warm as Kasai, maybe not keen on the fact that we didn't have a reservation, or not into children? (The one highchair was already being used, so we held him.) Not everyone has to like my baby, but it sure feels nice when people do! We walked by both restaurants all the time and the owner at Kasai always said a friendly hello. La Moressa just had a different vibe. Still, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it, just put Kasai higher on the list!!
And finally, the last of our dinners on the Vettica side, Ristorante M'Ama. Outstanding views, polished service and a highchair for very happy Cam! Below is homemade gnudi with pesto and local clams, local cod, and a beautiful dark chocolate sacher for dessert.
At our Airbnb we made Camden a play + nap area with blankets and pillows.
He is not yet crawling here - he could scoot around and move backwards but is mainly playing in one general vicinity. For us pre-crawling felt like the perfect time to take a first family trip. (He crawled right when we got home, just shy of 7 months!)
His red pack-in-play crib (or cot) is in the background of our early morning selfie shoot, below. I recommend to message your host a few days in advance to remind them of your crib requirement - be specific and mind the language barrier. In Praiano and Florence both hosts did not have a crib initially available or understand when we asked for one, calling them cots, despite the fact crib is listed on their Airbnb and I confirmed at time of booking.
After these two experiences I later reminded our host in Tuscany we needed a cot for our 6 month old and he set up an actual cot and was genuinely puzzled when we told him Camden could not sleep on it. So just the one minor thing of making sure your baby has a safe place to sleep! Otherwise everything felt very smooth traveling with this little guy! If you were only traveling to Amalfi Coast definitely skip the stroller and just bring the baby carrier. (Obviously we knew we wouldn't use the stroller here but needed/wanted it everywhere else.)
Travelling to Praiano is a brilliant idea. Travelling to Praiano with a baby is a wonderful experience and not as daunting as you may think! In fact, I think it makes more sense to take a baby here than a toddler. Staying on the Vettica side is highly recommended.
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